Feeling For | In Madrid, An All-Organic Menu Meets Striking, Surrealist Design

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Mama Campo sources organic foods from local chefs, which are then both sold on the market side and cooked up in the kitchen of the restaurant.Credit

When Manolo Yllera first told me last year that he was opening a market and restaurant in Madrid, I had an inkling that the Spanish interiors photographer would create something worthy of any lens. And of course Mama Campo is the kind of bright, airy and quirky place that could only be brought to life by a set of hands belonging to a person with a good eye for design.

Stepping into the whitewashed space on Trafalgar Street is a truly transportive experience, whisking visitors out of the old, traditional neighborhood of Plaza de Olavide, perched in the center of Madrid, and into what feels like a rural farmers’ market and eatery. The organic space — filled with lamps made from recycled and sustainable materials, art crafted with wool and wood, and sconces that look like real birds’ nests — feels surreal thanks to its high design. Works from over 40 artists, ranging from international superstars like Tom Dixon and Patricia Urquiola to a slew of local designers, include 20 pieces that were commissioned especially for the space.

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The eclectic set of tables, chairs, lights and art includes work by internationally renowned designers, like Tom Dixon, as well as by local Spanish artists.Credit

But of course the design wonderland is just a backdrop for the savory food. Along with two partners, David Yllera and Nacho Aparicio, Yllera sources seasonal, local flavors from organic producers in the area — even the wine and beer are organic. And the farm-to-table dishes, like stews and paellas laced with a homecooked-by-grandma quality, are served up by Daniel Larios, who studied cuisine under the Michelin-star chef Martín Berastegui. There’s even a children’s market for tiny shoppers with elevated appetites. But travelers beware: the seven tables on site have been fully booked since the space opened on March 3, so getting in for a casual meal requires some advance planning.

Mama Campo, Trafalgar 22, Madrid, Spain, 91 4474138; mamacampo.es.