How green is your beauty regime? Natural? Organic? Vegan ? Ethical? Cruelty-free? As dedicated beauty consumers, we are all looking for what we see as safer, chemical-free, non-toxic beauty solutions for makeup and skincare. It is not surprising then that the ‘natural' segment of the beauty business is the fastest growing across the world.
‘Natural' is a broad, blurry category at best and not very regulated. Even as it grows, there are concerns amongst beauty activists about green washing—a term to describe brands that claim greater natural creds than they actually deserve. We fall for the halo effect. A brand can tell us of its pure hibiscus flowers from Madagascar, ancient herbs from the Upper Himalayas or lavender from swaying fragrant fields in Provence in their skincare offerings, and we love the imagery this conjures up. It's a mini travel trip in a bottle.
In reality, that might just be ten percent of the story. The rest may well be synthetic oils and artificial fragrances because by law you can go with your lead ingredient, which could be one hundred percent natural. Terms like ‘made with' or ‘contains' before a description on your skincare product label don't tell the full story. Similarly, if a makeup or skincare brand sports a Leaping Bunny symbol certifying it is cruelty-free and against animal testing, don't assume it is also organic or certified natural. A brand may be high on the sustainability and ethics ladder—fair trade, recycling, community support, zero waste—and have the certifications to prove it, but that does not automatically mean it is also organic or chemical-free. But we often assume it does. Confused? Yes, it is a minefield to navigate but here are a few guidelines to help you choose better.
Label alert: Natural vs Organic vs Vegan vs Clean Natural is anything that comes from nature—botanicals, minerals, metals, and animals. Any of these can produce ingredients that are beneficial to skin and hair and can be used alone or in combinations in beauty. Ayurveda, for example, uses all four categories, while skincare products made using Bach Flower remedies are formulated with flowers and herbs. But it also implies using natural substitutes for chemicals and using natural ingredients wherever possible for both makeup and skincare. However, you can also make a natural claim in beauty even if you use pesticides and chemical sprays or don't disclose your farming practises.
Organic is also natural but deals with the living—the plant and animal world. To be deemed organic, you have to follow very strict guidelines and full disclosure. Ingredients need to be grown following organic processes—the soil is certified organic, pesticide- and toxin-free and no chemicals are sprayed while growing. True believers use solar power, water recycling and processes that have the lowest environmental impact. Organic brands and natural brands should be free of chemical toxins like parabens, SLS, synthetic fragrances and artificial colour.
Vegan makeup and skincare products do not have any animal produce, which is difficult as honey, dairy, lactic acid, biotin and lanolin are all derived from animals. Technically, you can have synthetic ingredients and still qualify as vegan, though vegans tend to cluster with the organic world. Vegan beauty is automatically cruelty-free and does not support animal testing. PETA lists alternatives to all animal products used in skincare and makeup.
Clean beauty, another trending term, takes a more practical approach—using the smallest number of ingredients and the safest, least-toxic choices.
Read the labels: front and back All commercial makeup and skincare brands list their ingredients on the back of the pack. The longer and more complex the list of ingredients, the less the chance of it being totally natural or organic. There are two respected organic certifications USDA and Ecocert—if you see their labels on your brand it means they have invested in getting their ingredients certified according to these strict rules.
Just Herbs in India has its certifications from Ecocert and meticulously details how organic or natural each line is. Neals' Yard, 100% Pure beauty, Goop and Innika are brands that spend a lot of time educating consumers and explaining their philosophy and ethics—organic, natural, cruelty-free, vegan, not tested on animals, non-toxic—as much as selling their skincare and makeup offerings. Thanks to social media, transparency has now become an important part of communication.
Know your ingredients If a product is cream-, gel- or water-based, it will need pretty strong preservatives to prevent microbial contamination and shelf life, so it is unlikely to be organic, whatever the claim. Plant butters and natural oils are good alternatives and oils like tea tree, rosemary or neem are often used in skincare instead of parabens, but if a product is truly organic or 100 per cent natural, its shelf life will be shorter. If a product lathers a lot, chances are it has SLS, a surfactant that is banned in many countries but not in India. If your styling product gives you extra shine and hold, it probably has dimethicone or silicone, a staple in hair and skin products. Many self-styled natural brands sneak in a little bit in their hair products. A test for whether your product has silicone is to see whether your hair starts feeling dryer after a few washes or treatments. Often products get away saying they contain permitted fragrances and colours but those are not natural, even if permitted by law.
On the other hand, silicon is natural and often used in mineral makeup. Titanium dioxide, which sounds chemical-ish is also a natural product found in skincare and is good for you in sunscreens. Soda bicarbonate is a safe synthetic and a good substitute in deodorants.
To thine own self be true I still don't have all the answers. I try and follow my instinct. If products are cruelty-free and eco-friendly (no plastic beads, for example) they get a high score in my book. If the Himalayas and the Andes are in danger of being denuded in the name of wild-crafting, I am happy with safe synthetics instead. If a brand is labelled natural, organic and free of toxic ingredients but has cheap plastic packaging, it raises a big question in my head—doesn't plastic leach into products? Natural, vegan and organic are actually lifestyle choices and you may have to audit your entire life, not just your makeup and skincare products. That is a big commitment to make.
Here's an edit of 12 cruelty-free makeup and skincare brands that are available in India:
