Martina Lenci

My Inspiration

Since the beginning of my research, I was strongly impressed by Victorian Age’s mourning practices, especially mourning jewels. These little artworks involve braided hair and gold, creating both elegant and creepy compositions. I began braiding synthetic hair on jackets and coats trying to recreate the same effect on my garments.

After that, I fell in love with mourning garments used in the period, and I decided to put some of the main characteristics on my creations.
Then I felt like something was missing, so I looked hard for a contemporary artist that could communicate the same sensation of loss, yet of recollection and heritage – that’s why the collection is called “Heirloom”- as the jewels. And I found this sensation in two young artists, especially in one that works with big installations of salt, a sacred element in Japanese mourning, from whom I took the prints.
Golden shoes and accessories strengthen the concept, and the effect.

My Collection

my F/W graduation collection finds its roots in classical men’s garments. I have a very strong interest in tailoring and in its ancient secrets; all is made by hand in a very religious way, and so did I for this collection. My personal studies outside Polimoda were, in fact, all based in menswear ancient and precious tailoring techniques that I learnt from a real master in his work.
My first thought has been to try combining the finest Italian tailoring traditions with a strong contemporary accent, necessary in times of style revolution like these in which we’re living. My ingredients were: a huge research concerning Victorian and classical elegant patterns, a big study inspired by the finest Tuscan menswear tailors and a journey in the works of some of the most interesting contemporary artists around.

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My Beauty Secret

I think my strength stays in simplicity, in minimalism and in small details that end making the difference. I like powerful and definitive colors – I always go for white or black, and never for gray.


Martina Lenci | Lucca, Italy
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