Mexico is where I first discovered my love of produce, through its markets and the extraordinary variety of ingredients found in them. I’ve been fascinated by the squash and pumpkin family ever since my first trip to the country: in Mexico, pumpkins feature in sweet and savoury dishes alike, while their protein- and mineral-rich seeds have been ground and used to thicken and enrich sauces for thousands of years. Courgettes have a similar allure, not least because in Mexican markets huge bags of the flowers are sold for next to nothing, unlike the eye-watering prices we’re charged here. They’re used in all sorts, too: stuffed with cheese and/or vegetables, crammed into tacos, omelettes and other street food. Mexican courgettes come in all sizes, shapes and colours, in just about every hue of white, green and yellow.
Today’s recipes, then, are a homage to the courgette. If you can get hold of the flowers, they’ll look very pretty laid out across the top of the frittata; alternatively, stuff them with goat’s cheese, saute until hot, drizzle with honey and serve with the salad.
Roast courgette frittata with mint, chives and smoked mozzarella
Roasting concentrates the flavour of the courgettes and, combined with the fennel seeds and smoked cheese, gives this frittata an intense, almost meaty savouriness. Serves six.
4 courgettes, cut into ‘coins’ about 1-2cm-thick
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp fennel seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 courgette flowers (optional)
50g butter
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
8 eggs
1 big handful fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped, plus a few extra to serve
1 heaped tbsp chopped chives, plus a few extra to serve
200g scamorza (smoked mozzarella) or regular mozzarella, drained and sliced
Heat the oven to 230C/450F/gas mark 8. Toss the courgettes in a bowl with the oil and fennel seeds, and season generously. Spread out on an oven tray and roast for 15-20 minutes, until they’re tender and blistering slightly. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. If you have courgette flowers, remove the stigmas and stamens, then open them out like butterflies.
Melt the butter in a large, nonstick frying pan over a medium heat, then gently fry the spring onions for a couple of minutes, until softened. Beat the eggs in a bowl, mix in the mint and chives, then season well and pour into the softened onions. Cook for a minute or so, until you can see the bottom begin to turn opaque, then scatter the roast courgette pieces: don’t worry if you can’t fit them all on – save the excess for another dish (they’re lovely served cold or at room temperature, scattered with a little fresh mint, as a salad or side dish). If you are using courgette flowers, layer these on top of the roast courgettes, then lay the cheese on last.
Keep cooking the frittata until the base and edges are done, and just the middle remains loose and uncooked. Transfer the pan to a hot grill and cook until the centre is solid and the cheese has melted. Once the frittata is ready, leave it to stand for five minutes, then run a knife around the edge, loosen the bottom gently with a spatula, then slide it on to a plate. Scatter with some mint leaves and chives, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Roast courgette, herb, pistachio, apple and giant couscous salad
This salad has many layers of flavour and texture, and makes a gloriously summery light lunch. To make it more substantial, serve alongside roast pork, fried fresh mackerel or sardine fillets, or scattered with crumbled fresh cheese. Serves four to six.
4 courgettes (plus their flowers, if you can get them)
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g pistachios
300g giant couscous
600g vegetable or chicken stock, heated
1 eating apple, peeled and grated
1 preserved lemon, flesh removed and rind finely chopped
1 handful each fresh dill, mint, parsley and marjoram
1 tbsp za’atar
1 tsp sumac
1 lemon, juiced
Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Top and tail the courgettes, then finely slice lengthways – I find a vegetable peeler is the best tool for this job. Toss the courgette strips in two tablespoons of the oil, transfer to an oven tray, season and roast for 10 minutes, until golden and juicy; halfway through, roast the pistachios on a separate tray for the last five minutes. Take both trays out of the oven; when the nuts are cool, chop them roughly.
Meanwhile, toast the couscous in a pan with a tablespoon of oil, until golden, then pour on the hot stock and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for six to eight minutes, until tender.
Toss the courgettes through the couscous along with the rest of the ingredients, tearing up the herbs and courgette flowers, if using, as you throw them in. Season generously, dribble over a little more oil, if you like, and serve warm.
And for the rest of the week…
Although the frittata is at its best warm from the oven, it’s also fine at room temperature, making it great for a picnic or lunch box. I love the smoked mozzarella – add it diced to risottos (or risotto balls, yum) or use to stuff aubergines or those wonderful courgette flowers. Gather together any leftover herbs from making the salad, roughly chop and add them to a simple omelette for a light, tasty and quick meal. Or make a herb butter for garlic bread: add the chopped herbs and crushed garlic to a pack of softened butter, roll into a log and freeze for a party.
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