UKC

Third Ascent of The Keswickian E8 7a for Dave MacLeod

© Dark Sky Media

Related photo: Dave MacLeod climbs Grasas Saturadas, E6 6b on a trip to Kintra on Mull  © Dark Sky Media
Related photo: Dave MacLeod climbs Grasas Saturadas, E6 6b on a trip to Kintra on Mull
© Dark Sky Media
Dave MacLeod has made the third ascent of Adam Hocking's lakeland route The Keswickian (E8 7a), E8 7a at Gouther Crags.

UKClimbing.com caught up with Dave MacLeod to find out more about the ascent:

I went to the crag completely on the off chance. I was doing a talk at Outward Bound until 10pm in Fort William and then drove down to the Lakes and only arrived at 2.30am. So I was a bit tired the next day and we only got round to leaving our digs in the early afternoon after a few breakfasts.

My friend Alicia did a nice Hard Severe and after that I abbed down The Keswickian to have a look but didn't expect to do it. I had a play on the crux on my shunt but didn't have toe-hooking boots with me so ended up using a different sequence to Adam. I figured out a good sequence and led it straight afterwards and the lead went fine.

It was quite a nice day for climbing with a good breeze which helped. It's a nice route for a boulderer - it's good rock with good gear and has a short and fierce crux. I've no idea about the grade though as I've not repeated enough hard trad routes recently, I've mostly been bouldering.

I'd actually gone down to look at Dave Birkett's E9 on Cam Crag. The day after I did The Keswickian I went for a look at that but it was really wet so it wasn't to be. Hopefully we will get some nice weather for some more mountain trad this season.

Related Video: Adam Hocking on The Keswickian:


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20 Jul, 2016
So was the "nice HS" The Fang ? MVS/HS whatever.. Always really like Gouther.
20 Jul, 2016
Well, MVS and HS is the same grade......
7 Aug, 2016
It was great to watch the video of Dave MacLeod leading the Keswickian. I topped roped the start of this route in the 1980's and then finished up the left arête, but was not up to leading it. However the point of this message is that below the overhang beneath 'One Step Beyond' there is a letter box half way up the seemingly blank wall which takes good friends and a crack below the roof which would take a peg or two. With great difficulty and probably some rope tension (!) I top-roped this direct line to the overhang and then moved left along the overhang to the position where the Keswickian starts. Somebody with ability should maybe try this start as it would be an amazing line. Paul Carling
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