Six Things to Know About Oak and Reel, Milwaukee Junction’s New Italian Seafood Spot

On Thursday, September 10, Detroit’s Milwaukee Junction neighborhood will welcome yet another dining option to its growing ranks with the opening of Oak and Reel. Headed by chef Jared Gadbaw alongside local alums from Leila, Magnet, and the Apparatus Room, it’s one of the most highly anticipated openings of the year.

Under normal circumstances, a chef who led the kitchen at a Michelin-starred restaurant Marea in New York moving to Detroit to open a high-end Italian seafood restaurant might be the biggest story of the week. But the buzzy Detroit food scene has been eclipsed this year by a pandemic, that’s dangerous wake has resulted in a spiral of crises within the American restaurant industry. Restaurants opening now, especially those devoted to a certain style of indoor dining service, are facing greater risks than they might have just seven months ago. Gadbaw is aware of the stakes. “We’re just trying to trying to get a chance at this point in time,” he says. “It’s been a challenge and I know that that we still have got a massive uphill battle.”

Like most establishments opening during the “after times,” Oak and Reel faced about four months of delays. Gadbaw and his team used the time as an opportunity to observe fellow restaurants and bars try to adapt their models and see what works. As part of the opening model, Oak and Reel has opted to offer a prix fixe menu where customers pay a set price and don’t need to necessarily rush through their dinner like they might at places that are relying on turning tables. “We’ve weathered some storms and are still weathering a current pandemic, but the show must go on and we’ve got to keep moving forward.” Gadbaw says.

Eater spoke with Gadbaw ahead of the opening to discuss what customers can expect from the restaurant going into this week’s debut. Here’s six things to know about Oak and Reel.

The space: At 50 percent capacity, Oak and Reel has enough space to seat up to 70 people. Gadbaw anticipates that they will reduce that further to 35 or 40 percent capacity — around 50 distanced seats.

The chef: Chef Jared Gadbaw is a Michigan native who moved to New York 17 years ago when he was in his early 20s to pursue his culinary training. He eventually landed a position at Michael White’s Marea, where the restaurant earned two Michelin stars. During his time with the restaurant group, he was able to travel abroad for other restaurant projects but always hoped to return to the Detroit area and open his own spot.

The team: Oak and Reel’s team includes a number of seasoned hospitality workers including Mike Conrad, the former chef at Magnet. The front of house manager is Pete Franklin, a former manager from Leila, who is also joined by Alyse Anderson, a former hospitality manager at San Morello.

The food: Gadbaw immerse himself in cooking Italian seafood during his time in New York and wanted to bring more seafood options to Detroit. “I didn’t grow up eating a whole lot of seafood. It wasn’t something that was very well represented,” he says. Working with Conrad, Gadbaw has been able to connect with local purveyors including Motor City Seafood. The menu features options like oysters with spruce mignonette, spaghetti nero with crab and bottarga, and olive butter poached halibut.

As previously mentioned, the menu is prix fixe. Customers can book their seats via Tock or by phone at 313-270-9600 with a $20 per person deposit and choose from a three course meal for $60 or a four-course meal for $75. They then mix and match items and choose a dessert from the menu. Oak and Reel also plans to host special nights on Mondays and Tuesdays with discounted meals for people working in the food and beverage industry.

The drinks: Oak and Reel’s bar is primarily focused on wine with a mix of by-the-glass choices and bottles ranging in price from $39 to $450. Customers can also count on classic and Italian-styled cocktails like like spritzes, negronis, and old fashioneds.

The precautions: Gadbaw says his goal is to make sure people feel comfortable dining in throughout the season without feeling rushed — pointing out that some restaurants have instituted time limits on tables during the pandemic. In addition to the standard COVID-19 precautions, Oak and Reel is requiring a reservation to be seated and will take customer temperatures upon arrival. Tables are spaced between eight and 10 feet apart, more than the minimum six feet required by the state and recommended by health experts. “Our hope is that we can provide a model that allows people to really come in and relax and have a more sophisticated dining experience here,” he says. Read more about Oak and Reel’s COVID measures on the website.

Oak and Reel is located at 2921 East Grand Blvd; opening Thursday, September 10 with reservations available on Tock and by phone at 313-270-9600; open from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on weekdays and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends (Closed Sunday and Wednesday). website.

• An Italian Seafood Restaurant Is Heading to Milwaukee Junction [ED]
• All Openings Coverage [ED]
• All Oak and Reel Coverage [ED]