What it does: Braised goose, Chinese herbal soups and stir-fried vegetables
This place ticks all the boxes for being a good old-fashioned Chinese food establishment: the dim lighting, old tables, dirty wooden chopping block, and century-old soup pot that looks like its never been emptied. Then there’s the loud voice of the auntie who screams your order from the second floor. Of course, the goose is the star here, but I really love their stir-fried vegetable dishes too. It's better than anywhere else in town! The fermented lime soup with tender chicken wings is killer too. No wonder it runs out so fast—get there by noon!
2/2 Soi Convent, Silom Rd, Bangkok. Tel: 02-235-6362, 02-235-0388
What it does: Fried squid, steamed eggplant with salted fish and Hong Kong fried noodles
There aren’t that many places in Bangkok where you can have a proper sit-down meal at 4am in the morning. Their Chinese kitchen might not be quite as good as the high-end spots but the no-frills atmosphere and fair prices make it one of my favorite spots for a good Chinese meal. Don’t go home without trying the deep-fried squid with salt, chili and garlic, Sichuan-style fried bean curd and stir-fried string beans. My guilty pleasures here are the bizarre Hong Kong crispy noodles served with stir-fried eggplant and salty fish. Love!
152/8-9, Silom Rd., Bangkok. Tel: 02-237-2764
What it does: Pork noodles
Super easy and super delicious pork noodles just a soi away from the chaos of Emquartier. They provide cups of freshly squeezed lime juice to put into your noodles which really makes a difference. You might be confused at first because there are two shops next to each other that sell exactly the same thing at exactly the same price—well yeah, that’s because they’re brothers. Don’t worry, the noodles taste equally good at both places, just pick whichever one you can manage to find a free table at.
10/3 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-6746
What it does: Amazing grilled chicken and other Isaan dishes
If you love Thai grilled chicken, som tum, kao niew and the likes, you probably already know and have eaten at this place before. Let’s face it, the thing that gets everyone going back is really the massive pile of fried garlic that’s smothered all over the grilled chicken. There’s so much that I always need to share it over onto the other dishes too, like the kor moo yaang or laab nam tok. By the end of the meal, there’s basically fried garlic all over everything, and I’m OK with that.
Soi Polo, Wittayu Rd., 02-251-2772 , 02-252-0856, 02-252-2252
What it does: Old-school Chinese fry-ups
This grimy shop-house was serving up proper, gloopy Chinese junk food long before it became all the rage. Never mind the copious MSG, snarky service or questionable hygiene; their eggplant French fries are pretty much the most amazing thing done to vegetables ever. You’ll also have to fight a crowd of territorial aunties on weekends.
5/4 Soi Ngamduplee, Rama 4 Rd. 02-679-7019
What it does: Just what the name says
The decor is a train-wreck of what seems to be the remnants of at least three previous restaurants, but you’ll do well to find better banh mi in Bangkok. The baguette is soft yet crunchy, fluffy yet firm—as for fillings, try the Vietnamese meatballs in tomato sauce. I also rate the silky banh cuon and crisp chicken salad. Bonus: the owners couldn’t be friendlier.
Rompo Mansion, 99/9-11 Thang Rotfai Khao-Saipaknam Rd., 02-671-9955
What it does: Japanese drinking food
Doesn’t matter which branch you stumble into, you’re guaranteed to be greeted like an old, drunken friend. The katsu curry is more butter-y than most, but comes with these great little chunks of pork to keep things interesting. The sets are big enough to feed a small family—or just one very hungry Japanese salaryman.
23/8-9 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd., 02-234-8082. BTS Sala Daen
What it does: Old-school roast duck
It doesn’t matter that the old uncle generally forgets something from your order, this poky little place has lasted over a century for good reason. The roast duck comes with this killer fatty skin. The only real problem is they close at 8pm, which more often than not actually means 7.30pm or earlier.
1415 Charoenkrung Rd, 02-234-3755. BTS Saphan Taksin
What it does: Fresh Southern Thai food
It’s fitting that a white guy would like this place, as it always seems to draw more tourists than Thais. Maybe it’s because the food isn’t cheap, or the sad location in underage drinking central CocoWalk. I can’t fathom the food is to blame, though. Compared to Baan Ice, whose new Paragon branch is permanently mobbed by Bangkok’s bourgeoisie, I find T.S.’s sataw with shrimp and kuakling moo vastly superior. Spicier and less sweet, T.S. may well be too Southern for Central Thais. Also recommended: the melinjo (bai liang) stir-fry, fresh shrimp relish (namprik kung sod) and fried spanish mackerel (pla inseeh).
89/34-35 Phayathai Rd., 02-656-6703. BTS Ratchatewi
What it does: Incredible shrimp balls
Look for B Resto, at the corner of Santiphab Park. Next to it you’ve got an open-air shop house doing amazing stewed beef and beef balls. It’s delicious and you need to eat there. Next to that is a shop-house doing various seafood balls with noodles. The fish balls, which come in a few different varieties, are great. But it’s the shrimp balls that I’m crazy for. I always order an extra bowl and dump it into my “took yang piset” (mixed special) order. You can tell a lot of shrimp goes into them, and very little flour.
Soi Rangnam
What it does: Isaan food
A friend of mine took me there once and I haven’t stopped going back! The spicy, sour and salty combination in their salted egg somtum is always perfectly balanced, and I’ve never been disappointed. But they do many other different kinds of somtum that are worth trying, such as corn somtum, deep-fried somtum and even fruit somtum (ranging from pomelo to coconut). Sure, it’s going to cost a little more than your regular street stall, but I don’t mind paying more for the air-con on a hot day.
9/1 Soi Sriviang, Pramuang Rd., 02-630-3486
What it does: Grungy barbecue
It’s a good outdoor place to go to when you’re starving but borderline broke (or just frugal). You basically pay B219 for the all-you-can-eat dinner menu and you’re in hungry (wo)man heaven! It’s a great deal—you get to choose whatever meat and veggies you want to throw onto your charcoal grill, whether it’s beef tenderloin, pork, chicken or seafood cooked with thick, generous lumps of butter. And there’s bacon on the menu so you can also cook your meat in bacon fat.
1490/2 Sukhumvit Rd. between BTS Phra Khanong and On Nut, 02-742-9416
What it does: Wood-fired pizza, Mediterranean and special Israeli dishes
It’s a pain to get to without a car because it’s tucked all the way down Soi Yen Akat, but their food and laid-back loungey seating (plus the owner’s two adorable puppies) make it worth the hike. They’ve recently upped their prices, but whatever… I’ve never had better falafels anywhere else.
20 Soi Yen Akat, 080-606-0400
What it does: Pizza, pizza, pizza (and more)
This Italian restaurant located in a normal flat on soi 31 makes it seem like Italian food was born right here. They are generous with the amount of cheese and their wine is tasty and priced reasonably. Great for families, this warm hangout spot feels like catching up with a long lost friend.
3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-259-0405
What it does: fulfilling brunch, dessert and drink menu
Not sure if there’s anything on the menu here that isn’t great. Start off with a nice big English breakfast, then a warm cup of coffee. Finishing with The Ring, a croissant donut with ice cream and caramel.
53 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-381-6120-22
What it does: More “affordable” premium(ish) sushi than anywhere else
This is by no means the best branch of the Sushi Hiro empire (it’s now got branches in Thonglor and Aree), but it’s essentially the go-to place for those craving decent sushi on the other side of the river. You really can’t beat the salmon sashimi set (five very fatty, wholesome pieces) and the fragrant, slightly burnt engawa sushi done just right—both are great value once you’ve subscribed to the place on LINE (the daily promos are very hard to ignore!). It’s the quality of the produce that makes it stand out. But, of course, you can be greeted with confused waitresses, slow service, and crazy long queues during peak hours.
Crystal SB Ratchapreuk, Ratchapreuk Rd., 080-088-8226
What it does: Miang Pla Pao and seafood dishes
Students that live around Ratchathewi will think of J’Goi for really zaap isaan food, and that’s also where most of the crowd goes late at night. I personally really like the Miang Pla Pao set here though - comes with pretty good kanom jeen, two types of sauces depending on how much you can handle the chilli, and plenty of veg. Other curries and dishes available for order are also solid, and pretty authentic. It’s also just right by the BTS too.
106/12 Vipavadee Rangsit soi 2. Vipavadee Rd. Tel: 085-906-7280
What it does: Surprisingly authentic Thai food
This original branch is where I always take my visiting friends from abroad. It’s a got a lovely view of the Rama 8 Bridge, with a very homey vibe (you’re not meant to wear shoes when you step into the restaurant). It’s not fin -dining, but the basics like yum tua plu and yellow curry are well-executed. The fried seabass salad is also another one to try. Keep in mind that access is quite dodgy though, especially at night, as it seems the entrance is forever under maintenance.
Thewet Pier, Samsen Rd., Tel: 02-281-0915
What it does: Guayteaw kua gai (fried noodles with chicken)
Chula area’s answer to kua gai. They really nail the smoky aroma of the dish. There was one time on a rainy day when my family drove to the shop for some takeaway. The staff totally knew his job. He came to take our order and help us with parking. And when he delivered the goods, the kua gai aroma bursted into the car. I couldn’t wait till we got home to dig into the delicious noodles.
Chula Soi 18, 081-899-2173
What it does: Chicken biryani
The best chicken biryani I’ve ever had. Flavorful and aromatic rice with just as nice chicken. The grungy place also whips up some curries, but to be honest I haven’t even taken a look at the menu. It’s so close to my house I always just head there for takeout. Get there before noon to ensure there’s still some left for you.
Charoenkrung Soi 43, 02-266-4903
What it does: Barbecue pork, roasted pork belly, duck and other Chinese dishes
There are equally big names like Prachak and Nai Soong in the area selling similar dishes. But for the best not-too-red moo daeng (Chinese barbecue pork) I rely on Saen Yod. Here, you can tell by the slight smokiness, the texture and the balanced taste that this thickly-sliced pork is truly the champion.
Soi Charas Wiang, 02-236-3905. BTS Saphan Taksin
What it does: Isaan food
Someone told me the team from Nahm goes here after service and I've used that to justify eating here with countless visiting friends. I have no idea if it’s true but the food’s good enough to believe it. Don’t miss the barbecued beef, salted-egg somtam or delicious duck laab, washed down with Blend whiskey by the bottle.
BTS Surasak
What it does: Roman-style pizza and other simple Italian dishes
Hardly original, but there’s really no place you can get such simple, quick Italian food done well. That tomato sauce makes everything they do taste amazing—go for the simplest stuff like pizza marinara. Also, be sure to ask for the farrotto, which they took off the menu but will still whip up from time to time: a carby stodge of spelt, cheese, bacon and, of course, that wonderful tomato sauce. So good.
Room #1, MRT Sukhumvit Station, Asoke, 02-259-1228
What it does: Khao tom
There’s nothing better than khao tom for a late-night meal. I also enjoy the ordinary-but-tasty side dishes like the crispy omelet, fried salted olive with minced pork, stir-fried morning glory and stir-fried clams with roasted chili paste. Even though sometimes they take so long cooking your meal, it’s always worth waiting for.
587 Phra Sumen Rd, Wat Bowon Niwet, 02-282-1206
What it does: Various choices of kiew (dumplings) and stir-fried string beans (B100)
I had labeled Chinese food as tasteless, oily and uninspiring until being introduced to this Cantonese restaurant. How wrong I was. Liaoning restaurant offers a variety of dumplings with different meat and veggie fillings, plus different cooking techniques. The stir-fried dishes are pretty tasty, too, like the stir-fried string beans—a proper drink-friendly choice. The best thing perhaps is that they open until 5am; perfect for a post-party meal and bottle of Tsingtao.
152/4-7 Silom Rd., 02-635-6536
What it does: Isaan food
It’s hard to say who does Isaan food the best. But I’d say Jae Koi is one that you can always rely on. Located by Petchaburi Road, next to Ratchathewi junction, this semi-indoor baan baan-style joint also has the option of an air-con private room. Prepare for to take the heat. Highlights include the tum sua puu pla ra (papaya salad with pickled crab, fermented fish and fermented rice noodle), with its balance of salty, sour and spicy. For a brack from the spice, I recommend the sue rong hai (crying tiger grilled beef).
362/2-3 Phetchaburi Rd, 081-907-2664
