DINING

PS Underground no longer a secret. Supper club finds permanent home in Palm Springs

Robert Hopwood
Palm Springs Desert Sun

On a recent Saturday evening, nearly 40 men and women gathered for dinner at PS Underground, a nondescript space next to Palm Springs Koffi South.

No one knew what he or she would be eating that night. The only clues they had were the name of the event, “ORB — A celebration of the moon,” and the date.

Since the event was held during the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission, everyone knew it would honor Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin’s historic moon landing.

But what type of food does that inspire, besides Tang?

The guests, who each paid $85 for dinner, were about to find out. That anticipation is what drew many of them to the new restaurant in the city’s Twin Palms neighborhood. The food and its creative presentation keep them coming back.

Guests watch a video of the first moon walk at PS Underground on Saturday, July 20, 2019.

“You never know what you’ll get, and I’ve never been disappointed at all,” said Desert Hot Springs resident Darrel Brown. It was the sixth dinner he and his wife, Deanna, enjoyed. The couple discovered PS Underground before it moved into the space off South Palm Springs Drive — previously home to shuttered Italian restaurant Appetito.

Since 2012, members of the "wandering" PS Underground supper club attended these types of parties at "mystery" locations, where many of the details were kept secret. That was part of the fun. Each dinner featured a decorative and culinary theme. But earlier this year, founders David Horgen and Michael Fietsam picked a permanent home for the series. 

“It’s always been our goal to have our own location,” Fietsam said. “When this space became available, it was almost like it was built for PS Underground.”  

The “ORB” dinner began with sugar snap pea soup, topped with lemon crème. Next came oven poached opah, or moonfish (get it?), served over potato purée. The mild flavors were offset by the tart and tangy taste of lemon and squid ink beurre blanc.

Next up: Tang.

The chef, David Horgen, made a sorbet out of the orange-flavored drink plus fresh orange juice and Grand Marnier. It was served in a crystal dessert dish, lit with white lights and surrounded by a cloud of fog.

Tang sorbet is served in a crystal dessert dish  at PS Underground on Saturday, July 20, 2019.

It doesn’t take long to realize that PS Underground isn’t a traditional restaurant. Each meal is an elaborate experience of light, sound and entertainment, where the presentation is as important as the food.

Horgen and Fietsam started PS Underground in November 2012, growing it into what Fietsam now describes as a “culinary adventure space." The original idea grew out of dinner parties the couple threw for friends at their Cathedral City home.

Their new spot across from the Ace Hotel & Swim Club gives them flexibility, Fietsam said. They can do more with lighting, sound and technology. And the new kitchen is perfect for larger, better food presentations.

“It’s allowed us to be a heck of a lot more creative with the details of each event,” Fietsam said. 

Horgen introduced each course at “ORB — A celebration of the moon."

After the sorbet, the chef served a gourmet version of spaghetti and meatballs, with a giant turkey meatball — topped with a Parmesan crisp — stuffed with spaghetti squash. The meatball was tender, moist and perfectly seasoned, and it came with pomodoro and pesto cream sauces.

Guests are served moon pies for desert at PS Underground on Saturday, July 20, 2019.

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Dinner ended with handmade moon pies, which are traditionally eaten to celebrate the moon landing. They were made with a crumbled chocolate chip cookie crust, chocolate ganache and homemade marshmallow.

Entertainment was provided by the Gand Band, who performed covers of “Moondance” by Van Morrison, “Ground Control to Major Tom” by David Bowie, “Bad Moon on the Rise” by Creedence Clearwater Revival and “Rocket man” by Elton John.

Dinner ended with video clips of the Apollo 11 mission, including shots of Armstrong and Aldrin walking on the moon.

“It was like nothing I had ever experienced before,” said Dee Jalala, of Loveland, Colo. “The food was cool. The lights were cool. I just liked it a lot.”

It was her first time eating at PS Underground.

The Gand Band performs "Rocket Man" at PS Underground on Saturday, July 20, 2019.

The couple behind the concept doesn't plan to stop their secretive, off-site series, but the dinners won’t happen as often as before, Fietsam said. Past events have been held at various locations across the valley, including Moorten Botanical Gardens in Palm Springs, Coachella Valley Brewing Co. in Thousand Palms, Pete's Hideaway in Palm Springs and more.

At the new restaurant space off South Palm Springs Drive, they now serve brunch, stage theatrical events and host private parties.

They held several events there in May, Fietsam said, but their grand opening was during Restaurant Week, from May 31 to June 9. They served more than 700 people over 10 nights, he added.

The Browns said they will be back.

"They are very creative with their food and their shows," Deanna said. "It's very fun, always."

Will Dean contributed to this report.

If you go

Address: 1700 S. Camino Real, Palm Springs

Cost: $40 to $200 per person, depending on the event. Price covers the meal, but alcohol is extra.

Reservations: Required at psunderground.com.