The south of Mozambique: The unexplored coast

But the rest of southern Mozambique remains largely unexplored. Over the years, several holiday homes were built on the bay side of the peninsula facing Maputo – mostly by South Africans. Then, about a decade ago, on Machangulo’s opposite coast facing the Indian Ocean, an enormous stretch of land was set aside for the development of an exclusive estate of private villas. In July 2008, then Crown Prince Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands announced plans to build there. But by late 2009, construction had hit a rough patch, with rumours of corruption and even a murder. None of it had much to do with the prince himself, but he nevertheless sold up. Fortunately, about a dozen other foreigners went on to complete their villas without a hitch, and many are now available for rent. Perhaps the most magnificent of these is the grand, seven-bedroom Colina Verde.

Set high on the crest of forested dunes and run like a hotel, it is one of three exceptionally smart properties in southern Mozambique. Another is Machangulo Beach Lodge, just five kilometres north of Colina Verde, where there are 17 simple but beautiful guest bandas on the spectacular tip of the peninsula. Then, much further south, closer to Ponta do Ouro, is White Pearl, a wildly ambitious hotel with punchy room rates to match.

When it opened in 2012, White Pearl was a huge gamble, the first property of its kind in an area entirely unfamiliar to travellers packing that kind of cash. By far the biggest challenge has been its remote location. Machangulo and Inhaca can be reached from Maputo by boat, but for White Pearl the choice was a pricey helicopter ride or a four-hour bumpy road transfer, dodging potholes and maybe a stray antelope.

Personally, I don’t mind the drive. There’s always lots going on along African roads, and in Mozambique it means the chance to stop and buy spicy peri-peri sauce, sold in recycled beer bottles, and cashew nuts (the country once led the world in their production). But anyone who opts for the helicopter won’t be sorry. From the air, there is a thrilling view of the incredible sweep of coast line, a mix of wetlands, swamp forests, grasslands, lakes and mangroves criss-crossed by the Maputo River, which begins in the east of South Africa before bisecting Swaziland and then winding its way into Maputo Bay.

Everything is changing in this region with the completion of a 110km paved road stretching all the way from Maputo to the South African border. It includes a $725million suspension bridge, the biggest in Africa, and cuts the driving time to White Pearl by more than half.

The opening up of Mozambique’s south will ultimately pit it against the better-known, more northern archipelagos of Bazaruto and the Quirimbas, which already have superb lodges such as &Beyond Benguerra and Azura Quilalea Private Island.

The Maputo reserve, though small, is one of 10 in Africa managed by the Peace Park Foundation in its bid to create cross-border national parks. It is hoped that one day the reserve will connect with South Africa’s Tembe Elephant Park, just north of Zululand. The idea is that the overflow of wildlife from South Africa will help boost the numbers in Mozambique, where many species ended up in the cooking pot. An almost parallel reserve for marine life runs all the way from Maputo Bay down the coast to South Africa, where the iSimangaliso Wetland Park begins. A recent spike in publicity for both parks, on land and sea, together with the flurry of activity on the new road, have reinforced a much-needed sense of optimism in this obscure and utterly breathtaking corner of the country.

I ask Isaac Nhamirre, the resident astronomer and dive master at White Pearl, why visitors would come to the south, an emerging region trying to make its mark, instead of the arguably more exotic islands further north. Nhamirre has lived and worked all along these gorgeous shores. At first his answer seems evasive.

‘The areas to the north have small coral and the water is about 26˚C,’ he says. ‘The south has big coral and the water is about 24˚C.’

Then I realise what he’s actually saying: no matter where one visits on the Mozambique coast, it’s impossible to go wrong.

Between 1975 and 1992 the country was torn apart by a civil war that took the lives of more than a million people. Among those displaced by the conflict was Bemugi Sochaka, who at the age of 10 was sent from the mainland to the relative safety of Inhaca Island, where he could avoid the landmines. Today he, too, has become part of the revival of the south, recently opening Bemugi’s – a bayside restaurant with an open grill where he serves incredible seafood platters –and two colourful guest bandas. He beams with enthusiasm about the future of this region.

During my stay at nearby Machangulo Beach Lodge, I have the place to myself. It’s the middle of the week in May, almost winter here, but the days and the ocean are still warm, the evenings call for just a light cardigan, there’s no malaria to worry about, and the shoreline down to the cove at Ponta Abril is completely empty.

The only other guests, a young couple, had left that morning. They told me they were completing a ‘long road trip back to London’ after a stint in China. Mozambique was their last stop, and their conclusion about the lodge, the dune-lined shore in front of us, and the tranquil Machangulo peninsula was unequivocal: this was the best place they had been, ever.

And I know, as I head down the lodge’s wooden stairs to the beach – the sand stretching out before me, a lone fisherman standing on the rocks, a gentle breeze blowing – it won’t be long before news of this miraculous place gets out.

Red Savannah (+44 1242 787800; redsavannah.com) offers a seven- night beach break in Mozambique from £4,870 per person, including three nights full board at White Pearl Resorts, three nights full board at Machangulo Beach Lodge, one night B&B at the Southern Sun Maputo, plus South African Airways flights from Heathrow, road and helicopter transfers. Alternatively, six nights’ exclusive use of Colina Verde (sleeps 14) cost from £2,950 per person all-inclusive, including flights and transfers.

Where to stay in Mozambique

White Pearl resorts

Set on a secluded semi-bay, and the only super-smart hotel in this part of Mozambique. There are just 21 rooms with plunge pools; six have easy access to the beach, the rest have glorious ocean views. A wooden walkway winds through the grounds and up to a hilltop spa. There’s a lap pool in front of the library and a beach bar for long lunches and evening drinks on the deck. The hotel arranges ocean safaris in the marine park, and horse-riding on the shoreline.

Address: White Pearl Resorts, Ponta Mamoli, Zitundu, Mozambique
Telephone: +27 11 026 2674
Website: whitepearlresorts.com

Colina Verde

Owned by a European family, this is a very grand thatched villa with high, wood-buttressed ceilings and lots of porches and balconies. The superb managers, Lucy Campbell Jones and Graham Pollard, have both worked at lodges on Benguerra and Vamizi islands, and they leave nothing to chance (ask Graham for a kayak tour of the mangroves). The chef has put together a brilliant menu which includes perfectly seared tuna steaks and carrot fritters with cashew cream.

Address: Colina Verde, Site 54/55, Machangulo Peninsular, Mozambique
Telephone: +258 84 278 0071
Website: colinaverdemoz.com

Machangulo Beach Lodge

This hotel is only accessible by boat, which adds to its wonderful sense of peace and isolation. The guest bandas are hidden in a forest at the end of the peninsula, the best with views to Inhaca Island and the Indian Ocean. Popular with fishermen, it is also fully kitted out for scuba diving, snorkelling and kayaking. Picnics on Inhaca beach and driving tours of the island are highlights. There’s also a spa for facials and massages overlooking the waves.

Address: Machangulo Beach Lodge, Maputo, Mozambique
Telephone: +27 13 744 0422
Website: machangulobeachlodge.com