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Can serious wine come in a can?

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If you still can’t get past that wines in a screw-top bottle can be high quality, then wine in a can is going to make you flip your lid.

Several innovative wineries around the world have started “bottling” their juice in cans and marketing it toward a hipper crowd, some — like Oregon’s Underwood — more successfully than others. Underwood’s pinot noir, pinot gris and rosé aren’t dumbed-down novelty wines. They’re what they’d put in glass, and do, just more portable.

Perfect for camping, backyard barbecues, picnics or anywhere you’d bring cans of beer or soda, I brought mine on vacation to sip on the balcony of my hotel room. In my stemless, plastic GoVino “glasses,” naturally. Check out the wine company’s cheeky, pretension-busting campaign, complete with its own hashtag (#pinkiesdown) and video series. Cans of 375mL (about 2 glasses) start at $6.

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Region: Primarily Oregon’s Willamette and Umpqua valleys.

Style: Frisky, fruity and light-bodied

Pair with: Anything you’d eat in a casual setting, from fried chicken to burgers, grilled veggies, light cheeses to salmon jerky. The pinot gris and rosé, in particular, are can-tastic on their own.

Buy them here: Cardiff Seaside Market, Cardiff, (760) 753-5445, seasidemarket.com; Grape Connections, Point Loma, (619) 523-6441, grapeconnections.com; Siesel’s, Bay Park, (619) 275-1234, bestmeatssandiego.com; Iowa Meat Farms, Grantville, (619) 281-5766, bestmeatssandiego.com; Wine Loft, Carlsbad, (760) 944-1412, thewineloft-carlsbad.com; Olive Tree Marketplace, Ocean Beach, (619) 224-0443, olivetreemarket.com.

Looking for an actual bottle? Since nothing says casual like rosé, I always keep some on hand for easy sipping at an impromptu picnic or while the grill is heating up. My wallet-friendly standby is the Marques de Caceres rosé of tempranillo from Rioja, Spain (around $6.99, at Trader Joe’s and supermarkets everywhere), while the $20-$22 Fiddlehead Cellars Pink Fiddle rosé of pinot noir, from Sta. Rita Hills, is more of a splurge. “Pinkie,” as it’s called, has more depth, but both feature vivacious strawberry and spice notes and, yes, screw caps.

Next week: Escondido’s j° brix 2013 Rougarou Old-Vine Carignan from Pauma Valley grapes is a wine with a story and a soul.

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