Wine: why Spanish wines work with barbecues

It’s instinctive, when picking barbecue wines, to look for inspiration to countries where barbecuing is an art form, particularly Argentina, Australia and South Africa. But big, lush reds are not always the best choice for a barbie, especially if you’re just grilling your food, rather than slathering it in a sticky marinade. (And even if you are, think how refreshing a cold beer might be instead.) In which case, maybe you’d be better off with a cool red rather than a jammy one.

When I look back over my tasting notes for the last few months, the wines against which I’ve consistently scribbled “BBQ wine” have come from Spain, not the new world. And no, not rioja, either (though there’s nothing wrong with a vibrant young rioja joven or crianza, which get no, or comparatively little, oak ageing), but Spain’s up-and-coming regions such as Uclés in Castila La Mancha, Utiel Requena in the south and Bierzo up in the north (about which more in a couple of weeks). For example, I love the vibrantly fruity Bodegas Fontana Oveja Tinta 2014 (£9 Oddbins), from Uclés, which is made from graciano and strikes me as ideal for the robust flavour of grilled food (and, given the label, especially lamb). At 14% abv, it’s not exactly light, but it is wonderfully fresh and juicy. The corresponding white, Oveja Blanca (also £9 Oddbins; 13% abv), is a heady, scented dry muscat that’s one for gewürztraminer fans, and a good choice to kick off a barbecue; it might even be a decent match for Yotam Ottolenghi’s Thai-spiced lamb chops this week, which would suit an aromatic white much more than a red. The same bodega also produces Mesta Old Vines Tempranillo 2014 (£8 Marks & Spencer; 14% abv), which is made in a similarly vivid style.

Another variety to look out for is bobal, which it turns out is the third most widely planted grape variety in Spain (who knew?). Asda’s hugely drinkable, juicy Wine Atlas Bobal 2014 (£4.97; 13% abv), from Utiel Requena just north of Valencia, is an affordable starting point, or try the more powerful Vox Populi Bobal 2011 (£8.99 as part of a mix-and-match deal at Majestic; 14% abv), which would be a great partner for Yotam’s barbecued celeriac. Aldi, meanwhile, has added a new blend to its Spanish Toro Loco range: a Bobal Merlot 2013 (£4.49; 13% abv), which is an absolute belter.

Finally, if you’re not hung up about own-brand wines, Waitrose Mellow and Fruity Spanish Red (13.5% abv) is just that: mellow and fruity. Also, at £4.99, it’s great value.

matchingfoodandwine.com