Rock Island State Park is 'rugged beauty' at its best

I've heard about and heard about and heard about Rock Island. And I really wanted to see it for myself.

My long-awaited day trip to this popular state park (and Midstate community) came last month, and I have to say that the waterfalls and rocky landscape were even more breathtaking and stunning than I expected.

The park's manager, Damon Graham, kindly took me on a full park tour, giving me spectacular glimpse after glimpse of what he calls "rugged beauty" at its best.

The must-sees for any visitor to Rock Island are the two giant waterfalls, the 30-foot Great Falls next to the historic Cotton Mill building and the 80-foot Twin Falls on the other side of the Caney Fork River, both of which will "wow" you from almost any vantage point.

Unlike many of the other standout waterfalls in the state (we are lucky to have so many), Rock Island is a rare treat because its falls run constantly because of the dam. "They stay the same year round, never dry up," Ranger Graham told me.

Another big plus for casual waterfall lovers is that at Rock Island you can view both of these big falls from overlooks that are literally just a few steps from where you park your car. Heck, you could probably get a pretty good gander at the falls out of your car window without ever setting foot on the park ground.

Of course, if you want to get up closer to the action (which I did) and are able to hike (which I sorta was), most days you can do some honest to goodness rock hopping to get to the bottom of these mighty falls. And it is at the bottom where you can best experience and enjoy their magnitude and bask in the exhilarating spray and mist that emanate from the massive falling waters. (Be sure to check the TVA water release schedules before hiking down close to Twin Falls, as you are directly downstream of the powerhouse. Swimming in the fast currents here or climbing the waterfalls is prohibited.)

Both of these falls are definitely majestic — whether they are seen from the overlooks or from the bottom rocks. They are "awesome" in the most literal sense.

Hiking is a prime activity at this park so wear hiking shoes or boots or at least your good walking shoes. "This is a rustic park, a rugged park," Ranger Graham said, pointing to the rocky terrain that defines just about every inch of it.

"We do have some flat trails, but most of it is not a stroll in the park. Because we are on the Cumberland Plateau, there are some pretty good inclines and drops," he said. "A lot of it is steep and rocky.

"This park is very rugged and requires extra caution and preparedness," Ranger Graham said, noting that while it is permissible for people to hike into the gorge, he and his team "strongly discourage jumping from any rocks or bluffs."

One of the park's best hikes is the Collins River Trail, a three-mile loop that is good for families. Another favorite is the 1.6-mile "lollypop" Downstream Trail, which you can pick up at the bottom on the steps next to Twin Falls and take to follow along the water.

Swimming is another big part of this park's attraction, with a designated swim beach and nice sandbar on Center Hill Lake. There also is some ice-cold (60-degree) gorge swimming (they don't call it the "Ice Hole" for nothing!) for the more adventurous parkgoers in the area near the falls — which is definitely a "proceed with caution" proposition.

"People love to go into the gorge, but they need to be in good physical shape to go," he said, noting that hikers should exercise constant vigilance and safety precautions in the waters around the dams. Not only are there unpredictable currents and rocks, the water can be released on an "irregular schedule," which can flood the entire area with raging water in mere minutes.

The 870-acre Rock Island park, which is a little less than two hours from Nashville, is steeped in history and has at least 10 waterfalls, including the two biggies. The two major falls are probably a quarter mile apart as the crow flies, but a 10- to 15-minute drive by car, so be sure to get a map from the park office and arrange to visit both on your visit. Once you have seen them both, if you are like me, it will be hard to decide which you like best.

Plus there are eight hiking trails, ranging from a quarter mile to three miles. Water lovers also can enjoy the swim beach, boat launches, great fishing, good kayaking spots, tent and RV camping facilities, pavilions, nature programs, canoe floats, led hikes, history tours, 10 cabins that each sleep as many as 10 people, and a little gift shop in the park office.

The only bad news about Rock Island is that the park is so popular that weekends are crowded and cabins stay rented constantly.

But the good news is that it makes a good day trip, especially if you can go on weekdays when it is not so crowded. The park is close enough to be a very doable day trip from almost anywhere in Middle Tennessee. You could easily make a day of it — check out the falls, enjoy a hike and then relax on the beach. Take a picnic lunch and you should be all set.

And be sure to take lots of pictures. You would be hard pressed to find a more photogenic backdrop than those mighty waterfalls.

Rock Island State Park may be my new favorite beautiful Middle Tennessee place to "stay cheap!"

Reach Ms. Cheap at 615-259-8282. Follow her at www.tennessean.com/mscheap, at https://www.facebook.com/mscheap?_rdr. and on Twitter @Ms_Cheap, and catch her every Thursday at 11 a.m. on WTVF-Channel 5's "Talk of the Town."

Things to know if you go to Rock Island State Park

• Stop by the park office as soon as you arrive to pick up maps and find out about any special activities that might be going on. Put the park office 24-hour telephone number in your phone in case of an emergency

• Wear closed-toe shoes, such as tennis shoes that you don't mind getting wet, as opposed to wearing Tevas or other water shoes.

• Be forewarned that the Rock Island water in the gorge area of the park stays very cold, around 60 degrees through the summer.

• Go on weekdays if you want to avoid big crowds.

• Take water, bug spray and suntan lotion with you.

• Be safe. Ranger Graham cautions: "We strongly discourage jumping off of any rocks or bluffs. We suggest wearing a (personal flotation device) and closed-toe shoes anytime you enter the gorge as you are near a dam and powerhouse where water is released on an irregular schedule, possibly without warning. Pay attention to changes in water levels/currents, sirens and warning signs. Checking TVA Great Falls website is another suggestion, as it gives water release schedules."

About Rock Island

• The park office is at 82 Beach Road in Rock Island, Tenn. The park itself is in Warren and White counties on the headwaters of Center Hill Lake, at the confluence of the Caney Fork, Collins and Rocky rivers. The "island" that named the park is on the Caney Fork River and is technically not part of the 46-year-old park.

• Rock Island State Park's rangers manage 2,000 acres of land, which includes the 870 acres of parkland as well as land belonging to TVA and the U.S. Corps of Engineers.

• Estimated annual attendance at the park is about a half million people.

• Rock Island State Park can be accessed from I-40 Exit 288 or I-24 Exit 111, located 15 miles southwest of Sparta. If you want to see other area falls, Burgess Falls State Park is 25 miles away and Fall Creek Falls is 30 miles. Cummings Falls is about an hour away.

• Contact: 800-713-6065 or 931-686-2471 or see www.tnstateparks.com/ri

Visitor extols 'wonderful scenery'

Here is what Albert King had to say about Rock Island State Park after he and his wife, Michelle, spent a few days there last month as part of their Tennessee waterfall vacation:

"We did visit Rock Island, Burgess Falls and Cummins Falls on our vacation. While I would say each park has something to offer, we by far had the most fun at Rock Island. The thing that stood out at Rock Island was the wonderful scenery, rugged hiking (rock hopping), cool and cold swimming holes, and the waterfalls of course.

"The gorge was full of large to gigantic limestone rocks to climb and cross, and when you get to a stopping point there was either a cold swimming hole or beautiful waterfall to help you cool off. There are plenty of areas to have a picnic lunch either at the beach area on picnic tables or just on one of the large rocks while hiking, but I wouldn't recommend carrying too big of a lunch while hiking. It can be strenuous at times. Just some water, a towel and a camera in a waterproof bag of course because you are going to get wet.

"I would recommend first to drive to all the overlooks and enjoy the falls from a distance. After that enter the gorge by one of the many trails and start hopping either to the Twin Falls for the power and beauty or to Great Falls for a more daring swimming experience."