Sake Isn't a Rice Wine, and Four Other Myths Dispelled

Sake is more popular than ever before in the U.S., and due to continually increasing exports, our country now enjoys the largest and highest quality selection in history. While it’s great to have an abundance of sake choices, this fermented rice drink is still somewhat misunderstood. Below, five common sake beliefs, debunked.

1) Only cheap, low quality sakes are served hot

Whether sake sould be served warm versus chilled is hotly disputed. When sake first became available in the U.S., many early imbibers experienced it as a no-name piping hot house sake. With the so-called Jizake or craft sake boom that started to reach our shores in the 1990s, the country was introduced to premium grade sakes served chilled. And as cold sake grew in popularity, many assumed that sake served hot was lower in quality across the board. In truth, it’s really a case of looking for quality and picking the right sake for the right temperature. Start with a cheap, poor quality sake, and no amount of heating or chilling will make it better.

Heating sake tends to bring forward the warm alcohol notes on the palate and suppress some of the aroma, so be sure to select a premium sake that is already dry and robust with less of a distinct bouquet. This style of sake can be beautifully crafted and release wonderful umami flavors when warm. From a sake classification standpoint, start with Junmai and Honjozo-grade sakes. Focus on quality and the right sake style for the right temperature and the outcome will be enjoyable.

2) Sake should be drunk out of small ceramic cups

Many people think that when it comes to serving sake, it’s all about the ochoko, or small ceramic sake cup. Many restaurants will use this type of vessel to serve all their sakes, warm or cold. But, in reality, many types of cups and glassware work.

When it comes to selecting a sake vessel, first look at the sake’s aroma profile. Sakes that are more aromatic such as a Daiginjo will benefit from a stemmed wine glass with a bowl that will allow the drinker to swirl and sniff. Holding the glass by the stem also helps the sake maintain its temperature.

Sakes that are highly concentrated in their impact, such as a Koshu or aged sake, can benefit from a smaller sherry glass. The vessel enables the drinker to sip and savor these richer and more intense sakes.

It's worth mentioning that small ochoko cups do have their place, and the best ones are made from pottery to hold sake like a Honjozo that’s served warm. The pottery retains some heat and helps keep the sake warm at the table. Small sake cups made out of glass are also common and are a great fit for premium chilled sakes that have a less pronounced aroma, such as a clean and dry Junmai sake.

3) Sake is a rice wine

"Rice wine" is a term often used to classify sake. It’s a phrase some people use to briefly describe what to expect when sipping a sake, but it can also lead to some confusion. It’s understandable why people would refer to sake as a wine. It can have properties associated with wine such as being smooth bodied and quite aromatic, sometimes with fruity overtones. But is sake really a wine?

By definition, wine is alcohol that is fermented from the sugars in a fruit, so technically if there is no fruit, there is no wine. Sake, in contrast to wine, breaks down rice using a two step fermentation process. Rice starch is converted to sugar, then that sugar is converted to alcohol by yeast. In essence, this makes the sake production process actually more closely related to beer than wine. However, the way that sake is produced is totally unique in the world of alcoholic beverages. As such, sake does deserve its own distinct classification.

4) Daiginjo sakes are always the best quality because they have the lowest rice milling rate

It is important to note that many factors affect the outcome of a sake, and the rice milling rate is just one element

For many new sake fans, their first sip of a super premium Daiginjo or Junmai Daiginjo is often a revelation. These sakes are frequently exceedingly smooth, fragrant and complex. To achieve this super premium classification, sake brewers must mill their rice down to a minimum of 50 percent or less remaining of its original size. Because of this focus on the rice milling rate (lower rice milling rate yields a more premium classification), there is sometimes confusion about classification and quality.

The issue crops up when people order exclusively the super premium grades of sake thinking these are exclusively the best quality. It is important to note that many factors affect the outcome of a sake, and the rice milling rate is just one element. While Daiginjo or Junmai Daiginjo sakes are indeed often top tier in quality, there are stunning, exceedingly well crafted sakes at all classification levels to explore and enjoy.

5) Sake only pairs with sushi

For better or for worse, the place where most Americans get their first sip of sake is at a sushi restaurant. Thusly, it's a common belief that sake only pairs with raw fish. Sometimes people tell me they don’t buy sake to bring home because they don’t make sushi for dinner. It’s a real pity because sake is an excellent companion with many types of cuisine.

An important point when thinking about pairing sake and food is to remember that sake is much lower in acidity than wine, but has significantly higher concentrations of the amino acids that translate on our palates to that sense of umami. Picking up on the umami in foods is just a first step in working with pairing sakes.

The Japanese have a saying about sake: Nihonshu wa ryori wo erabanai. This translates to "Sake doesn’t fight with food." Sake is indeed a beautiful backdrop for all kinds of cuisines and styles of cooking. While sake will always work well at the sushi bar, consider taking some sake home to try pairing with other dishes.

Photos: Shutterstock/Duc Dao, Shutterstock/KPG_Payless, Shutterstock/ Sakarin Sawasdinaka, Facebook/Sake