LIFE

Could Hockessin become a food-lovers destination?

Patricia Talorico
The News Journal

The flags on the front porch were flapping in the wind, and the white twinkle lights were turned on. George Esterling III tied on an apron last Friday and had his sturdy oyster shucking knife ready.

Matt Fetters (left) and Tyler Esterling shuck oysters behind the new oyster bar at George & Sons’ Seafood Market in Hockessin.

The owner of George & Sons' Seafood Market was gearing up for the opening night of his brand new raw oyster bar and anticipated an onslaught of shellfish lovers.

Esterling says he is nervous and excited about the venture inside the Hockessin market at 1216 Old Lancaster Pike, which some might remember as the former Casapulla's sub shop.

He says his two sons, George IV, and Tyler, came up with the idea to enhance their retail seafood market by introducing a nine-seat oyster bar and an additional 36 seats where patrons can dine-in and enjoy raw and steamed seafood along with a bottle of beer or a glass of wine.

"I want a nice place where you can get some really neat oysters," say Esterling of the family friendly establishment. "Me and the kids are totally into it."

Delaware food lovers, want to be ahead of the crowd when it comes to knowing what might be one of the most evolving places in the state for good eats?

Would you believe it's Hockessin?

The staid bedroom community, home to more than 13,520 residents, is perhaps best known for the wafting and occasional pungent aroma from nearby mushroom farms. But, it has potential to become a food destination. In recent years, more restaurants and businesses catering to people who obsess about their next meal – usually while eating their current one – have been popping up.

The market could be ripe. Hockessin's median household income is $119,947, according to most recent U.S. Census Bureau figures, and its median age of residents is 46.

While the area is still lacking bigger specialty grocery stores like Whole Foods Market, Trader Joe's or Wegmans, independent food operators have been calling Hockessin home.

Did you know Woodside Farm Creamery, already beloved for the delectable homemade ice cream owner Jim Mitchell and family have been making since 1998, now sells fresh brown eggs, laid by its own chickens, at the 1310 Little Baltimore Pike farm?

Drop by between 3-6 p.m. on Wednesday and Friday afternoons and you can buy a dozen eggs ranging in size and price from $4 to $4.50.

Mark Eastman, an alumnus of Philadelphia's former Brasserie Perrier, holds demonstration cooking classes at his Chefs' Haven gourmet store at 1304 Old Lancaster Pike. Eastman also has a variety of imported cheeses, meats and chocolates, offers knife-sharpening services and sells homemade baguettes and other breads such as sourdough, French country, country rye and country wheat he bakes at the snug shop he opened in 2008. In the summer, he sells heirloom tomatoes grown in a large Landenberg, Pennsylvania, garden.

Mark Eastman, chef and owner of Chefs’ Haven in Hockessin, offers cooking classes in his shop. He also bakes and sells fresh bread. Eastman’s bread will be used for lobster rolls at the nearby George & Sons’ Seafood Market.

Some of the best fried chicken in the state – it's actually "broasted" chicken made in a pressure fryer – can be found nearby at Lettie's Kitchen, a comfort foods venture in an old farmhouse at 1318 Old Lancaster Pike.

It has been run since 2011 by mother-and-son team, Susan Alexander and Tom Alexander. (Oh, and don't miss their homemade potato salad and coleslaw.)

Across the road at 7460 Old Lancaster Pike is the former Henretty's Market, now Highlands Orchards/Henretty's. It sells fresh, local produce from Highland Orchards on Foulk Road in Brandywine Hundred, and is a Community Supported Agriculture drop-site.

Bill Henretty says customers are hungry more than ever for local foods. "They come in and wander around," he says. The store also sells $100 "Meal Bags," which will feed a family of four dinner for a week. The bags have meats, vegetables and dessert and contain a recipe.

Highland Orchards/Henretty's complements the 20-year-old and much larger Harvest Market at 7417 Lancaster Pike, which sells organic and natural foods and natural health care products.

Still skeptical the Hockessin 'burbs aren't quite a moveable feast?

Owner Greg Vogeley's Drip Cafe, in the Lantana Square Shopping Center since 2013, is more than a coffeehouse; it serves breakfast and lunch with a focus on fresh, local, sustainable foods and has hosted latte art competitions for local baristas. In the same shopping center, the now six-year-old RedFire Steakhouse & Grill gave its loyal patrons a treat in October when it added Sunday brunch to its already popular daily lunch and dinner service.

Those seeking farm-to-table-style dining options will likely do no better in Delaware than The House of William & Merry at 1336 Old Lancaster Pike. Chef/co-owner Bill Hoffman, who maintains a thriving garden in the back of the restaurant, has become one of the state's most innovative chefs since opening the eatery in 2011 with his wife, Merry.

Need a butcher? There's Doc's Meat Market at 7288 Lancaster Pike. Owner Norm Buczik, who has run the business since 1980, is well-known for the Polish pork sausage he makes using an old family recipe.

The Well Coffeehouse and Marketplace at 6949 Lancaster Pike, sells baked goods from Newark's landmark Bing's Bakery. The business, owned and operated by Trinity Community Church Delaware, is now offering cupcake classes for children.

Hockessin's established restaurant community includes 2 Fat Guys American Grill, Six Paupers Tavern & Restaurant, Okura Japanese Restaurant, The Perfect Cup, Quinn's Cafe and Back Burner Restaurant & Bar. And, this summer, it will welcome Two Stones Pub in the Lantana Square Shopping Center. A Capriotti's franchise is making a comeback soon.

And now oyster lovers have a new spot for shucking and slurping.

At George & Sons', the Esterling family has created an oyster bar where you can get shucked and steamed shellfish as well as bottled beer, wine ($6-$7 a glass), $10 Mumm's champagne and even sake.

The market's new raw bar area, which opened Feb. 6, also has nine tables. It's casual with a nautical theme. Fishing rods and nets hang on walls, along with T-shirts that read: "Just Shuck It."

Esterling says in addition to the oysters – about $1.50 to $2 depending on the variety – they'll soon sell steamed and raw littleneck clams and mussels, along with seafood soups like cioppino as well as lobster rolls. Staff members say diners can order whole lobsters and they also expect to add dishes like tuna tartare and ceviches to the menu. This summer, patrons also will be able to order and pick steamed blue crabs.

The bread served in the market will be baked by Eastman from the nearby Chefs' Haven.

Esterling says seafood for dine-in customers will only be served raw or steamed. "We're not going to have anything fried, baked or broiled."

For now, the bar has a limited of selection of craft beers – Wolaver's IPA was among the short list of choices – as well as red and white wines, white Zinfandel and champagne. Esterling says they will not sell any drinks made with hard liquors.

The Esterling family has been working on the project for some time. George & Sons' seafood market has had a Hockessin home since 2009.

Esterling formerly had his market in historic buildings at Old Lancaster Pike and Mill Creek Road which are owned by Gormley's Corner LLC. But, in 2013, he and and his landlord, Gormley's, were sued by nearby property owner Daniel Lickle who complained about the market's seafood odor. A Delaware judge ruled in December 2013 the fish odor around the store did not rise to the level of a nuisance.

This past December, George & Sons' moved to its present location, about a block away from its former site. Many might recall the new location as home to the former Hank's Market and, before that, Lake's Store.

Esterling says the new George & Sons' market, in a building dating back to the 1890s, is much larger than the former site.

To concentrate on the Hockessin business, Esterling says the family has closed its Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, seafood store.

The new Hockessin market has five to six parking spots out front, and Esterling says there are an additional 29 parking spots in the back of the building.

Customers also can park, after business hours, in the parking area in front of The Light House store at 604 Yorklyn Road and at GillespieHall, a public relations firm, at 1214 Old Lancaster Pike, he says.

The market and eatery is open daily. Visit the Facebook page for more information.

Contact Patricia Talorico at (302) 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com. Read her culinary blog Second Helpings at www.delawareonline.com/blog/secondhelpings and follow her on Twitter @pattytalorico.