UK Edition
Hair makeover: How a simple cut can change your whole face
Three readers in need of 'hair-spiration'. One top salon, Daniel Hershesons. Truly transformational results.
Nicole Kobilansky is in her 30s, lives in London and wanted a fresher, lighter style
Colourist Maxine Heale says: 'Nicole had dark-blonde hair to start with, so we wanted to take this lighter and brighter for more of a relaxed, beachy look. She had been highlighting her hair for years, so I was keen to add some ashy tones to give it a fresh, modern feel. I used conventional highlights to lift the bulk of her hair colour, then I free-hand painted the ends (which is called balayage) to make it look more textured and voluminous. This is a great technique to use on blondes, especially if you have finer hair – it really adds body. To finish, I used an all-over gloss to give a healthy, natural-looking shine. The overall effect is a creamier, beachy blonde that looks laid-back.’
Hairstylist Grace Newton-Hedges says: 'Nicole’s hair was in relatively good condition, but I cut it to just above the shoulders to elongate her neck and really emphasise her bone structure. I made sure to keep the ends choppy rather than blunt for a younger, edgier look. It also works really well with the lighter blonde tips, and it gives the appearance of extra texture and volume.
'Nicole’s hair is actually quite thick, so I took the weight out of the back and made the front slightly longer. In terms of styling, tousled waves work really well with this length and texture, so I used the flat irons to create a loose “S” shaped wave – at Hershesons we call it the “flave”. To keep the waves in place, make sure you spritz liberally with hairspray.’
Nicole’s verdict: 'I look so much brighter and it feels so much better now all of the hair is off of my neck. It looks like me, but version 2.0.’
The hero products
John Frieda Sheer Blonde Hi Impact Shampoo, £6.99; John Frieda Sheer Blonde Hi Impact Conditioner, £6.99; Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask, £24.75; Hershesons Titanium Ionic Professional Straighteners, £98; and L’Oreal Elnett Normal Strength Hairspray, £5.
Kim Lock is in her 50s, and had never dyed her hair before visiting Hershesons
Colourist Said Cheqrouni says: 'Kim had what we call “virgin” hair, which means she had never dyed it before. She was about 70 per cent grey and 30 per cent blonde. I didn’t want to give her a radical new colour; instead, I wanted to take her hair back to what it looked like when she was younger. To do this, I did a full-head balayage, which helped to lift her natural colour to a white-blonde. I then put on a toner all over to give plenty of shine. The toner also helped to cover more than 50 per cent of the grey and still look natural. The end result is a soft beige-blonde that’s perfectly blended with the remaining grey. The tone is ashy rather than coppery or yellow, which is not only flattering but also easier to maintain, and means Kim won’t have to worry too much about her root regrowth.’
Hairstylist Louis Cowley says: 'I wanted to change the balance of Kim’s hair, and take the weight out of the back to make it more flattering and easier to manage at home. The length is graduated at the back of her neck with a long sweeping fringe at the front, which adds a real softness around the face. The fringe can be swept back or pulled forwards depending on the look she wants to create. The shorter length is definitely a change for her, but it is versatile and she won’t have to spend hours in front of the mirror every day trying to style it. A little bit of wax will help to add some texture and hairspray will fix it in place.’
Kim says: 'I would never have asked to have my hair cut short, but I’m so glad I’ve gone through with it. It looks spectacular and I feel totally rejuvenated.’
The hero products
John Frieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder Express In-Shower Lightening Treatment, £9.99; Charles Worthington Colour Enhancer Violet Toning Shampoo, £5.99; Charles Worthington Colour Enhancer Violet Conditioner, £5.99; Aussie Miracle Recharge Moisture Leave-In Conditioner, £4.69; and KMS California Hairplay Dry Wax, £15.50.
Harriet Cronin is in her 60s, and wanted a style update with a more natural colour
Colourist Kim Bush, says: 'Harriet has been using henna colour for years, and was keen to avoid strong chemicals or dyes. I used a semi-permanent colour to take down the brassiness. Semi-permanent colour fades more naturally than permanent dyes. I used a light brown shade rather than anything too dark, so it would look more natural with her complexion and work with her eyebrows. The finish is flatter and looks healthier – plus she won’t have to worry about her roots coming through and looking too obvious.’
Hairstylist Adrian Parkitny says: 'I really like Harriet’s natural hair texture and curls. I wanted to create a simple, easy-to- maintain style, so I cut her hair into a one-length bob, then shortened the outline on both sides at the front to her lip line.
'Harriet did have a fringe to begin with, so I sliced the front edges to connect with the remnants of this. This really helps to frame her face; but I wanted it to be versatile so she can either wear it as a fringe or pushed back.
'For styling, I used Kérastase’s Oléo Curl, mixed with few drops of L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil to add definition and shine. I applied the products to wet hair and blow-dried it using a diffuser, with Harriet’s head flipped upside down to achieve maximum volume and to ensure that the curls were still defined.’
Harriet says: 'I love it – the cut and colour look incredible, I feel like a new woman. Just a couple of inches off of the length has made a real difference, and the colour is both soft and subtle.’
The hero products
Photography: Charlotte Kibbles. Hair by Hershesons. Make-up: Jess Whitbread using Nars Cosmetics.