Take me there
Why go?
Helsinki has shaken off a somewhat dour image in recent years to emerge as one of Europe’s most refreshing city-break destinations. It’s a breezy Baltic port with a strong tradition of design, an alternative nightlife and an edgier feel than some of its Scandinavian cousins. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Kallio, just north of the city centre. Once a no-go area for tourists, it’s now home to cool bars, cafés and boutiques.
What to do
At the heart of the area is the Hakaniemi market, where you can pick up everything from artisan cheese to local handicrafts (Hameentie 1a). Continue the spree in the secondhand shops and chichi boutiques of Fleminginkatu Street (Ansa Kauppa at No 8 is great for vintage clothing) and the attractive Torkkelinmäki district before stopping for coffee and cake at the charming Villipuutarha Café (Karlsgaten 13).
No trip to Helsinki is complete without a visit to a sauna. The city’s hippest place to sweat it out is the Japanese-inspired Kulttuurisauna, which opened last year in a slick white building on the waterfront near Kallio (kulttuurisauna.fi). Cool off afterwards with a dip in the Baltic if you’re feeling brave – or Finnish.
Where to eat
The bouillabaisse served at Soppakeittiö, a no-frills soup kitchen in the Hakaniemi market, is a big hit with the locals. New kid on the block Bar Sandro is the current top spot for Sunday brunch: a Moroccan-inspired feast with a side order of live music (sandro.fi). Street food is big in Helsinki – look out for the food stalls which pop up all over town serving gourmet sandwiches (streetgastro.fi).
Where to stay
The Scandic Paasi is a boutique hotel with bold, colourful bedrooms on the edge of the Kallio neighbourhood (scandichotels.com/helsinki).
Insider tip
“Made in Kallio [madeinkallio.fi] is a great design store,” says Eva Kiviranta of Visit Finland. “It encourages locals to meet and create handiwork and art together and has a store, gallery and cool café.”
Give me a break
Home: luxury farmhouse B&B near Hay-on-Wye
Just opened on the Welsh borders, Westbrook Court is raising the bar for the farmhouse B&B. There are only five luxury suites in the modern timber-clad annexe, with doubles priced from £100 per night – a steal when you consider the design spec of the colourful minimalist rooms, luxury kingsize beds and gourmet breakfasts which are included (westbrookcourtbandb.co.uk).
Away: seeing Europe by train
Save up to £53pp when you book an InterRail Global Pass before the end of September. Special fares are valid for travel from 15 September to 29 December, cutting the price of a consecutive ticket (15 days’ consecutive travel) from £352 to £299, and a flexi ticket (five days’ travel within a 10-day period) from £224 to £190. The passes cover 29 European countries (voyages-sncf.com).
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