The Best Spice Markets in the World
Mellah Spice Souk
Marrakech, Morocco
Like many bazaars, the main Marrakech souk is famous for its aggressive vendors, its impenetrable layout, and its elaborate bargaining customs. This smaller, quieter market in Mellah (the old Jewish quarter) is easier to navigate. The high-pointed cones of powered coriander, cumin, ginger, and anise make prime photo ops. Tip: Be wary of deals on saffron or argan oil since they are often fakes or adulterated with lesser ingredients. Instead, look for the typically North African mixture known as ras el hanout (translated loosely as "the top of the shop"). The flavorful mixture goes well with all sorts of grilled meats, tagines, and vegetables.
Kalustyan's Spices, La Boîte à Epices, and SOS Chefs
New York, NY
Though far less exotic than Delhi or Marrakech, NYC doesn't do too badly in the spice arena with several of the best shops in the country. Though they may be small in square footage, you can shop for hours since the shelves are packed with specialty spices nearly impossible to source elsewhere in the U.S. Kalustyan's is an old favorite of cookbook authors such as Paula Wolfert and Madhur Jaffrey. Search through the packed racks (which are arranged alphabetically) for unusual items like smoky Aleppo pepper from Syria, nigella and panch phoron seed from India, or the best quality saffron—you'll find it near the cash register. Pick up a jar of preserved lemons and some baklava while you're there. Two newer spice shops, La Boîte à Epices and SOS Chefs, put an emphasis on freshness and a degree of culinary knowledge that appeals to professional chefs such as David Chang and Eric Ripert.
Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado Central de Abastos
Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxacan markets are a must for visitors. Even if you don't plan to buy anything for the kitchen, you'll want to sample the tamales, tacos, and molote at the various food stands; smell the heady scent of cumin, chiles, and coriander; and see all the amazing women in traditional garb who come down from the surrounding mountains and valleys to sell their wares on the sidewalk. Don't be afraid to try the chapulines (crispy toasted grasshoppers tossed with garlic, salt, and lime). Look for prepared mole and the surrounding shops that sell Mexican chocolate both in bar form and as a hot drink; the best places sell it in varying degrees of sweetness. Also, make sure to look for vendors ladling out tejate, a sweet pre-Columbian drink made of ground corn, cocoa, mamey seed, and cacao flower.
Mercato di Testaccio, Mercato Esquilino, and Mercato Campo de' Fiori
Rome, Italy
The various food markets in Rome are not always known for their spices but keep an eye out—they're there. Between the rows of artfully displayed vegetables and fruits, you'll find wonderfully fresh fennel seed, dill, and pepper mixtures. Many visitors dote on the spice seller in Campo de' Fiori for his pasta-specific mixtures. He isn't hard to spot since spices are his main inventory. After stopping by the bustling Testaccio market, pay a visit to Volpetti, an excellent gourmet shop on the Via Marmorata. Ask for Claudio, who will make you a custom picnic of prosciutto and cheese, as well as provide a map to a beautiful park on top of the nearby Aventine Hill with panoramic views of Rome.
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La Boqueria
Barcelona, Spain
An open-air city market has been in this area since at least 1200AD but the vendors only got a roof over their heads in 1914. The soaring metal archways and pillars at its present site along the Rambla de Sant Josep make you feel as if you're in a cathedral for food shopping. It's the ideal place to stop to pick up a picnic of Iberian ham, Basque cheese, olives, figs, or peaches. Take home souvenirs of dried Spanish paprika, strings of peppers, and pungent spices from several vendors who also specialize in conserves, jams, and preserved vegetables.
Spice Bazaar
Istanbul, Turkey
Also known as Mısır Çarşısı or the Egyptian Bazaar, this busy market is slightly less daunting and touristy than the Grand Bazaar next door. Both places seem intended to get you lost by design; and the more lost you look, the more you'll be asked to sample the wares of every vendor you pass by. The best strategy? Cultivate a purposeful but faraway gaze and have a pleasant "no thank you" ready for any overly aggressive salesmen. They'll soon find easier targets. The back alleys of the open-air part of the market are filled with fragrant spices, plant-based dyes, and medicinal plants all sold alongside handmade baskets, fisherman's nets, and endless varieties of Turkish Delight. Once you decide on buying something, be sure to haggle. And be aware you're likely find the same souvenir you just bought for less money a few steps down the lane. Tip: Be wary of a deal on saffron; it's often a safflower substitute. But don't worry, this game has been going on for centuries and most of us are just rank amateurs. It's all part of the fun. Afterwards, take the edge off at the historic and beautiful Çemberlitaş Hamamı Turkish bath right next door.
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Condé Nast Traveler executive editor Stephen Orr, author of The New American Herbal, shares his top picks for the best spice markets in the world worth traveling for.
Khari Baoli
Delhi, India
Take a deep breath before you enter the rabbit warren of this ancient spice market in Old Delhi near the Chandni Chowk. It's said to be the largest in Asia, so expect to get lost once inside its labyrinthine lanes. Dimly lit, narrow paths wind past overstuffed bags of cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, star anise, turmeric, and allspice. The air is so thick with scent that you can practically taste it. You really feel the exotic history of the spice route here. But no matter how evocative the atmosphere, don't dawdle; this is a busy wholesale market and vendors are there to work, not gawk (or be gawked at). The spice sellers, though generally friendly, will make you aware if you are in their way. Tip: Always ask permission before taking a photograph—and stay out of the narrow walkways while you do it.