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Is Rosé About To Trump Champagne?

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The summer is almost over and the harvest is around the corner, but for the vintners who produce rosés, it seems the season has barely begun. In fact, the U.S. market’s appetite for rosé keeps growing exponentially. In 2010, the AOC Côtes-de-Provence exported 10% of its wine to the US. In 2018 it was 37%. 

Rosé originated in France as a cheap light wine from Provence. Several years ago, celebrities started drinking it while on vacation in the Hamptons, Miami or LA. Suddenly the pink wine was hip—perfect perhaps for a lazy lunch at the Hotel-du-Cap-Eden-Roc, but today, rosé has become a serious wine option, complete with ageing abilities and prices as high as $300 or more.

“We have grown so much as a wine culture,” said Daniel Johnnes, wine director for Daniel Boulud’s restaurants, “That we have endless options for rosé today, in terms of quality, hues and origins.” The wine now comes from Sicily, Greece and even the Canary Island, but France is still its largest producer and largest consumer!

 “At weddings, sparkling wine is on its way out and rosé is in,” said Emily Izakowitz who owns Events by Emily in North Carolina. “Brides love the combination of the color and the quality of the pink wine.”

Some believe Millennials are responsible for this trend. They want to know about the food they eat and the wine they drink. Their menu style may be casual, but they are curious to try new drinks, dishes and cuisines. To respond to their needs, Wines of Provence, an organization that regroups 96% of all Provence wine, is upping its 2020 communication budget in the U.S. to $500,000.

“We are the reference for rosé,” said Valerie Lelong, Wines of Provence Marketing and Communication Manager. “We want drinkers to know they can’t go wrong with our wines.”

But many credit vintner Gerard Bertrand from the Languedoc-Roussillon region—the coastal area to the west of Provence that includes Nîmes and Montpellier— for bringing rosé to the forefront. Born to a vintner family, Bertrand worked his first harvest at age 10. After his father’s sudden death, he found himself at 22 in charge of the family vineyards. 

Today, he is one of the largest importers of rosé in the US and exports his wines (rosés but also reds and whites) from his 15 estates in 160 countries. He is both a champion of his region and of biodynamic practices. He recently released Clos du Temple 2018, from the Cabrières appellation which blends five ancient grapes and retails for $190.

“The market is ready for a wine of that caliber,” he said. “I hope it will become the new standard for gastronomic rosé.”











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