Dressing for the '45: Assembling a Basic 18th Century Woman's Outfit

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  -- Assembling a Basic 18th c. Woman's Outfit
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Hints and Tips:
-- DO wear more than one petticoat of contrasting colors; the top one can be tied up through the side slits to show off the one underneath, or the one underneath can peek out from under the top one by about an inch.  This gives the proper 18th c. silhouette, which makes the waist look narrow by contrasting it with the fullness of the skirts.   (Believe me, it does work!)
-- DO wear stays, unless you're a nursing mother or wetnurse, elderly and poor, an invalid, or a slattern.  Most other women, even working-class women like dairy maids, seem to have worn stays; otherwise they would have given the impression of being "loose" (which is where the term comes from -- there was a strong connection in this period between neat dress and good behavior).
- PLEASE cover your hair, unless you are a single young girl.  There's nothing that ruins a period impression faster than a modern hairdo.  Even if you are tucking all your hair into a cap and putting a straw hat on top, that's much better than ruining your impression with a modern haircut.
-- PLEASE wear period glasses, or contacts.  Yes, I know, glasses are expensive, but that's often another area where reenactors fall short.
-- PLEASE find some kind of period footwear -- hide pampooties are cheap to make, and more accurate than Ren-Faire shoes.
-- Lastly, DO look at pictures that date from Europe in the middle of the 18th century -- look at what women were wearing, and how, to get a feel for what an accurate costume would look like.  Though there are very few such pictures of Scottish women, we do have some of English and French country women, and those can serve as a guide, with a little pinch of salt to account for context and the difference between those countries and Scotland.  Scotland was NOT completely isolated from fashion trends -- they just took a little longer to get there.

To be avoided:
-- "Circle" mob caps (i.e., mob caps made from a gathered circle of fabric with a drawstring) are NOT correct. They are not based on any 18^th c. historical object.
-- The "English Bodice" or "French Bodice" as worn by many reenactors are not based on any historical garment.  There was a vest-like jacket that was worn in the bedroom, or around the house by invalids or nursing mothers.  Unless you are in your bedroom, or your house in one of these states, don't wear one.  Also to be avoided: Ren-Faire bodices in tapestry or cut under the breast; they're not accurate either in materials or cut.
-- Stay away from prints unless you are very confident that they're period.  Most of the calico prints available are inaccurate and are more appropriate for Victorian day-dresses than 18th c. clothing.
-- Penannular brooches (my pet peeve) should not be worn; nor should you be wearing the big, silver Victorian brooches with the stones on them.  There are no existing penannular brooches dating from later than about 1100 AD.  Unfortunately, there are few jewelers making any accurate annular brooches for women (a few people making moderately acceptable annular brooches are listed on my 'patterns and resources' page).   If you don't have an annular brooch, a straight iron, wood or bone pin would be a better choice; you use it to pin on your arisaidh like one would use a straight pin.   Just be careful not to stick yourself with the pointy end; if you tuck the sharp end into a fold of cloth after using it to pin the arisaidh, that helps.

Blue aprons were common

- Townsend’s apron

Pinner apron (probably worn by French only)

Can be plain wool instead of tartan

Annular Brooches: a complete circle, not open on one side.

Also avoid annular brooches that are obviously early medieval. A more nondescript brooch will 'pass' better for 18th c.

Victorian or modern 'Celtic' pins; obviously medieval or Iron Age Celtic pins.

Godwin’s plain cap might be ok – haven’t seen

Any of Townsend’s caps (don’t look right)

Red wool petticoats (possibly with green or other color wool tape band above hem as trim) were common

Townsend’s pockets

Commoners less likely to have ruffles on shift sleeves and neckline

Lucet cording, or cotton, linen, or silk ribbon drawstring

Thread buttons (if any) on sleeve cuffs

Townsend’s Chemise w/out ruffle (probably – haven’t seen)

18th c. shifts were worn with a very low neckline; wear it correctly, then cover your cleaveage with a neckerchief.

- Kannik’s Corner Women’s Shift pattern

Gowns are definitely under- represented in the reenactment community at present.  They were worn by women from the top to the bottom of the social ladder -- in cheaper fabrics, or bought used, toward the  bottom.

Avoid tapestry, lace, brocades, prints, and fancy fabrics; unless your character is of the upper classes, you couldn't have afforded these fabrics, so they aren't appropriate for the average Highland woman.  

Not a beginning seamstress's project!

There's some debate as to whether shortgowns were worn in Europe; Jackets are better, but I think shortgowns are acceptable.

Townsend’s Shortgown or Bed Jacket

Kannik’s Korner Manteau de Lit Pattern

"English Bodice"

"French Bodice"

- Web Instructions: How to make 18th c. Stays

Can be purchased from Godwin, Townsend, other sites