Colorado has had to get ready for more than its fair share of close-ups.
The scrutiny coming Aug. 22-28, however, will be a real Rocky Mountain high for more than just the 136 pro cyclists — on 17 teams, from seven countries — taking on the two highest climbs in cycling history during the inaugural USA Pro Cycling Challenge.
“It’s been a long time since there’s been a major stage race in Colorado, so to have something of this stature with the caliber of athletes that it’s going to bring, this is major,” says Andrew Kurzon, a local cyclist who has raced on the Colorado circuit for eight years, currently for the BRC Real Estate team. “I can’t speak toward the impact it’s going to have on the state economically speaking, but for cycling, this is huge.”
At the very least, hundreds of thousands of spectators are expected to follow the action, and many already have booked lodging and dining reservations along the entire 518-mile route, which has been divided into a prologue and six stages over seven days.
“It’s a total guess, how many will show up, because we’ve never done this here before,” says race spokeswoman Allison McGee Johnson. “We’re expecting it to be one of the largest spectator events in Colorado history, though, anywhere from a quarter of a million to a million people.”
The 11 cities and towns along the route anticipate record crowds over a weekend that normally wouldn’t be one of the busiest. “It’s after school starts for a lot of the districts,” Johnson says. “It’s that in-between time when people slow down from the summer vacations and then start thinking about fall travel.”
For Kurzon — and he says many of his fellow cyclists, as well — squeezing in some kind of getaway is a must.
“I gotta work; I can’t just drop everything to follow a bunch of dudes in Lycra,” he says, laughing. “But we’re going to do something. I was up at 5 a.m. every morning watching the Tour de France. I didn’t want to wait to watch replays during the day or in the evening — I wanted to watch it as it unfolded. So I have to see some of this live.”
Denverite and avid cyclist Dan Recht followed the Tour de France — “I watched it daily,” he says. “I recorded it, and then I watched it while riding my stationary bike, riding along with them” — and plans to travel to see as many of the USA Pro race stages as he can.
“I’m going with guys that I race with,” says Recht. “I’m definitely going to Vail, and then we’re going to see where else we can get to. I’ll probably see over half of the race in person.”
Recht says that he thinks that the more interested and more involved Coloradans are in cycling, the more excited they are about the race, but also that the race will serve to inspire more people to give road cycling a try.
“Road racing has gotten increasingly popular with the expanded coverage of the Tour de France, and the involvement of American racers in European races,” Recht says. “And, frankly, Lance Armstrong, he made a big difference. He popularized professional bike racing. And that’s all good, because bicycle riding is a good, healthy pastime.”
Not everyone who plans to follow the race is an avid road cyclist, though. Olivia Hamm, who recently moved to Denver and was buying gear at the Bike Dr./Edgeworks bike shop on South Broadway, said she is hoping to follow the first couple of stages as they unfold and sightsee at the same time.
“I haven’t traveled around the state much, but I just started mountain biking,” she says. “I’m going to try to stay in some of the places where there’s some good riding, and check it out while I’m there.”
Things are booking fast, though. According to Julie Dunn, who represents two properties along the route, the Westin Riverfront in Avon and the Sheraton Steamboat Resort in Steamboat Springs, there are still rooms available.
“They expect to sell out, but we’re expecting a lot of people from the Front Range to get excited and come out for this event,” says Dunn. “As the excitement builds, we’re definitely thinking there’s going to be a last-minute rush.”
Johnson agrees. “It depends on the city, yes, but there are hotel rooms still available,” she says. “If you’re thinking about going, the sooner, the better, in terms of booking.”
Once you get settled in, here are some ideas for dining and things to do in each location, as well as recommendations from the savvy cyclists at area bike shops for a ride that will make you feel like a pro yourself.
Prologue
Colorado Springs to Garden of the Gods, Aug. 22
Watch it: On the side streets along Garden of the Gods Road
Refuel: At Marigold Cafe & Bakery (4605 Centennial Blvd., Colorado Springs, 719-599-4776, marigoldcoloradosprings.com), which serves a French-inspired menu worthy of a Tour de France-like workout, as well as decadent pastries (the double- chocolate mousse cake, ooh la la).
Feel like a pro: “Let’s see, my first favorite, the Air Force Academy, is closed because of security reasons. And my second favorite would be Garden of the Gods, but that’s going to be closed because of the race,” says employee Brian Stratton at Pro Cycling Warehouse (600 S. 21st St., Suite 120, Colorado Springs, 719-266- 4047, procyclingwarehouse.com).
OK, so his third favorite? The Black Forest route. “It’s close to the academy,” he says. “It has fun, rolly, hilly-type roads.” More info: cyclingthesprings.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: The Cheyenne Mountain Zoo (4250 Cheyenne Mountain Zoo Road, 719-633-9925, cmzoo.org) is a fun, relaxing, high-altitude stroll, with more than 500 animals, including an unusually large herd of giraffes.
Stage 1
Salida to Mt. Crested Butte, Aug. 23
IN SALIDA
Watch it: At the top of Monarch Pass or in downtown Salida, where on race day, there will be a parade and party.
Refuel: You’ll know it by the bikes lined up outside — the Fritz (113 E. Sackett St., 719-539-0364, thefritzdowntown.com) is one of Salida’s newest restaurants, a casual, cozy eatery that serves lunch sandwiches and innovative small plates for dinner. Bonus: They serve from 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily.
Feel like a pro: Eric Tauer, manager at Absolute Bikes (330 W. Sackett Ave., 719-539-9295, Salida, absolutebikes.com), likes the 55.5-mile trek over Poncha Pass to Villa Grove. “It’s got climbing, it’s got descending,” he says. “It takes you up through the upper end of the San Luis Valley along the Sangre de Cristo range, with views of the fourteeners, and it has pretty low traffic and big shoulders.”
To do the ride, start at the bike shop and head southeast to the Monarch spur bike trail. Turn right, bike to Third Street and turn right again. Turn left on Poncha Boulevard (County Road 120). Take CR 120 to the end at U.S. 285 and turn left. Take 285 over Poncha Pass to Villa Grove. Return by the same route.
“The other thing is, you can turn around at any point,” Tauer says. “Once you get up to Poncha Pass, you get the views. Then you can easily shorten the ride whenever you want.” More info: salida.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: Wander around town and check out the more than two dozen art galleries this culturally vibrant destination has to offer. Visit salida.com for the full list.
IN CRESTED BUTTE
Watch it: At the top of Mt. Crested Butte
Refuel: Teocalli Tamale (311 1/2 Elk Ave., 970-349-2005, teocallitamale.com) is fast, which means you won’t miss much of the action. The friendly staff sends out super-stuffed burritos, crispy or soft tacos and tasty, moist tamales, with four salsas from mild to hot and vegetarian options too.
Feel like a pro: Not surprisingly for the town that invented mountain biking, there aren’t a lot of road biking options. According to Josh Arthur at Big Al’s Bicycle Heaven (207 Elk Ave., 970-349-0515, Crested Butte, bigalsbicycleheaven.com), your best bet is the ride from town on Gothic Road up to Mt. Crested Butte. “Keep going until it turns into a dirt road, about 4 or 5 miles from town,” Arthur says. “There’s a right-hand turn onto Prospect Drive. It winds a couple of miles and then turns into dirt as well. That’s probably the best ride for people who want to get the views.” His other suggestion: The 28-mile road ride into Gunnison. More info: visitcrestedbutte.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: If you aren’t too tired from biking, this is a terrific time of year to hike in this area — the air is comfortable at this altitude, and the scenery is hard to beat. Try Upper Loop Trail, a 3.4-miler on Hunter Hill Road.
Stage 2
Gunnison to Aspen, Aug. 24
GUNNISON
Watch it: The top of Cottonwood Pass
Refuel: DeAngelo’s Pizza (435 S. Townsend Ave., 970-252-7499) is a favorite with folks staying in the area hotels because they deliver, but if you decide to eat in, say hi to friendly owner James Wilkinson, who’s usually on-site ensuring that all of the over-stuffed calzones and crispy- crusted, New York-style pizzas are top-notch.
Feel like a pro: There are several road rides that Will Jantz, manager at All Sports Replay (115 W. Georgia Ave., Gunnison, 970-641-1893, allsportsreplaygunnison.com), likes to recommend in the Gunnison area. The first is Ohio Pass Road (take Colorado 32 north 5 miles from Gunnison). “It goes north of Gunnison,” Jantz says. “It basically turns into a gravel road at some point; it’s probably a nice 30-mile ride. There’s not a lot of traffic, and anybody traveling down the road is used to bikes.” He also suggests Ninemile Hill, which sits west of town toward Blue Mesa and Lake City on Colorado 149. “It’s pretty fun,” Jantz says. “A bit of a climb.”
The third ride Jantz likes is the one that goes through Almont and up Taylor Canyon. “It’s probably about a 65- to 70-mile round-trip,” he says. “Right by the river, nice trees.” He likes the trip to Crested Butte, as well, because the road offers “nice, big shoulders, and you go up about 1,000 feet, but it never really feels like it’s that much.” More info: gunnisoncrestedbutte.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: it’s hard to know what to do first in the Curecanti National Recreation Area (nps.gov/cure), which has three reservoirs — meaning fishing, boating and swimming — and miles and miles of trails for hiking and horseback riding.
ASPEN
Watch it: The top of Independence Pass
Refuel: There’s something for everyone at Junk (305 S. Mill St., 970-925-5865, junkaspen.com), which serves funky, fun snack foods for lunch and dinner. The noisy and casual spot sends out filling and reasonably priced fare such as tacos, burgers, pork-belly skewers, po’ boys and mac-and-cheese. Save room at the end for s’mores big enough for sharing.
Feel like a pro: Every cyclist has to do the Maroon Bells ride at least once, and that’s exactly where Jesse Bouschard, manager of Hub of Aspen (315 East Hyman Ave., Aspen, 970-925-7970, hubofaspen.com) suggests. “Maroon Bells, that is the Aspen classic,” Bouschard says. “It’s an out-and-back, and probably for the fast guys, it’s an hour round-trip. From town, it’s about 12 miles up. A steady climb, not super-steep but steady the whole way.” The road begins west of town on Colorado 82 at the second traffic light out of town. More info: aspenchamber.org
While you’re in the neighborhood: Whitewater this year couldn’t be better, and the Roaring Fork River is no exception — Class II-III trips down this tributary of the Colorado River will still be running through the end of August. Visit croa.org to find an outfitter.
Stage 3
Vail time trial, Aug. 25
VAIL
Watch it: In Vail Village
Refuel: The Westside Cafe (2211 N. Frontage Road W., Vail, 970-476-7890, westsidecafe.net) serves three meals daily, all huge and reasonably priced, in a family-friendly and casual atmosphere. In the morning, go for biscuits and gravy or huevos; at lunch, it’s hard to skip over a half-dozen crazy kinds of Tater Tots (smothered in green chile? cheese and bacon?), but the salads and sandwiches are great too. At night, the locals swear by the pan-seared chicken with whipped potatoes.
Feel like a pro: According to cyclist and racer Dan Recht, if we want to be like the Europeans, Vail Pass is the way to go here. “It’s a very popular thing to do before the big races, like the Tour de France,” Recht says. “They ride the course in the morning, so we’re going to do a little piece of that. We’ll ride Vail Pass on Thursday morning, and be back in time to watch the race, which starts in Vail and ends partway up the pass.”
Vail Pass is what the pros train on and amateurs strive to complete, a lung-busting 14 miles uphill and a grinning 14 miles back down. It’s paved; it’s next to the road, not on it; it’s easy to hop on/off in several locations; and if you’re feeling especially fit, you can add more mileage on either end. More info: vail.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: Admission is free (although donations are welcome) at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens (183 Gore Creek Drive, 970-476-0103, bettyfordalpinegardens.org), a relaxing place to spend some time, especially if the crowds at the race start to get to you. The rock gardens, park and waterfalls here are lovingly cared for, and at this time of the summer, the flowers have become more gorgeous and prolific.
Stage 4
Avon to Steamboat Springs, Aug. 26
AVON
Watch it: In downtown Avon
Refuel: Bob’s Place (100 W. Beaver Creek Blvd., Avon, 970-845-8556, bobsplaceavon.com) hits the spot three times a day, with a dizzying variety of huge-portion dinner offerings: burgers and overstuffed potatoes, chicken-fried steak, about a dozen Mexican dishes, pizza, pasta, subs and salads. They also offer lots of kinds of beer, and there are TVs everywhere. Bob’s even has a veggie plate on the kids’ menu. Good luck with that.
Feel like a pro: Jim Popeck, part- owner of two locations the Mountain Pedaler (161 Main St., Minturn, 970-827-5522, and 101 E. Second St., Eagle, 970-328-3478, mountainpedaler.com).
“A nice ride would be starting in Vail and riding the bike path down to Minturn, and then from there up over Battle Mountain Pass, over Tennessee Pass, to Leadville, to Copper Mountain and up Vail Pass, and back to Vail,” Popeck says. “That’s about a 60-mile loop. That’s a good one.”
If you are looking for something a little shorter, he suggests just riding up Battle Mountain Pass, then coming back down for a beer at his favorite locals hangout, Kirby Cosmo’s (474 Main St., Minturn, 970-827-9027, kirbycosmos.com). “I like to eat and have a beer afterward when I ride,” he says. “The whole purpose of riding, as far as I’m concerned, is so that you can then eat and not gain anything.” More info: vail.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: Check out Avon’s new 350-foot Whitewater Park. If you’re a kayaker, bring the boat and check out the three features under “Bob the Bridge” on Avon Road. If not, then it’s fun to hang out on the side and watch the action.
IN STEAMBOAT SPRINGS
Watch it: In Oak Creek, just outside Steamboat
Refuel: The Shack (740 Lincoln Ave., 970-879-9975) is famous for its Ortega steak as a hangover cure, a ribeye slathered in red and green chiles and topped with eggs. The huevos rancheros are good too. They do breakfast and lunch (until about 2 p.m.) daily.
Feel like a pro: None of the road rides around Steamboat are “super-intense climbs,” says Danny Lynn at Orange Peel Bikes (1136 Yampa St., Steamboat Springs, 970-879-2957, orangepeelbikes.com). “With most of the rides, there’s rolling hills to one degree or another, like the one just heading west from town, called Twentymile, it makes a really nice out-and back,” he says. To do that one, start from downtown at the library on Lincoln Avenue and turn onto 13th Street, which turns into Routt County Road 33. Follow that as long as you like; if you go all the way to the coal mine, where the road intersects with Routt County Road 27, it’s a 40-mile out-and-back. More info: exploresteamboat.com/publications/bikeguide/
While you’re in the neighborhood: The temps this time of year are still up there, and nothing cools you off like tubing down the Yampa River. Hop on a tube right in town for a one-hour float. They pick you up at the end and take you back. Cost: $17 per person (water shoes $3). Visit backdoorsports.com
Stage 5
Steamboat Springs to Breckenridge, Aug. 27
IN BRECKENRIDGE
Watch it: At the finish line in Breck
Refuel: It’s worth the wait to get into the Columbine Cafe (109 S. Main St., 970-547-4474), for the cheery eatery’s great green chile, top-notch eggs Benedict and gigantic pancakes. Good coffee too.
Feel like a pro: Henry Yu at Avalanche Sports (540 S. Main, Breckenridge, 970-453-1461, av-sports.com) is another Vail Pass fan, but he takes it a little farther. “Don’t just do the pass,” he says. “Get on the bike path from here in Breckenridge, and go to Frisco, and then do the little tour around the lake at Lake Dillon. Then you can continue on to the summit of Vail Pass and into Vail.” The whole enchilada out-and-back will be about a lung-busting 46 miles. More info: gobreck.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: The mountains around Breckenridge offer unsurpassed hiking opportunities — close-in at the ski area and beyond. Visit gobreck.com for a downloadable trail map for a good starting point, or stop by a gear shop for more detailed topos.
Stage 6
Golden to Denver, Aug. 28
IN GOLDEN
Watch it: Near the city’s welcome arch
Refuel: Green chile is a good choice after a bike ride — when isn’t it, really? — and Santiago’s (715 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-277-0966, eatatsantiagos.com) is a Colorado favorite. You can go mild, medium or hot, but be prepared for the latter — it’ll make your face water.
Feel like a pro: Several bike shops mentioned that the classic Colorado road ride is the 4-mile climb up Lookout Mountain. Richard Templeton at Golden Bike Shop (722 Washington Ave., Golden, 303-278-6545, goldenbikeshop.com) agrees. “You get a great view of Clear Creek Canyon,” he says. “It’s a climb, yes, but it’s not going to kill you. There’s a place to park right off 19th Street here in town, and then just start heading up.” More info: golden.com
While you’re in the neighborhood: If you’ve never taken a tour of the MillerCoors Golden Brewery, now’s your chance. The free beer at the end isn’t the only reason — it’s cool to see how the stuff is made. A cold brew at the end is a bonus, especially on a hot day. Visit millercoors.com or call 866-812-2337.
IN DENVER
Watch it: At the finish line next to the state Capitol
Refuel: Proto’s Pizzeria Napoletana (2401 15th St., 720-855-9400, protospizza.com) is just a hop-skip from the bike path near Confluence Park, and there are spots out front where you can lock up your bike, or lock them at the park or by REI. Then dig into the wafer-thin, crispy crusts here, which despite their airy texture still manage to be filling, partly because the pies are loaded with delectable toppings. A fave: the Margherita, with fresh tomatoes and basil. But also the Ruby, with pesto and kalamata olives.
Feel like a pro: Angela Wilhelmi at the Bike Dr./Edgeworks (860 Broadway, 303-831-7228, bicycledr.com) says the crew there likes the area bike path system for people from out of town because “it’s harder for people to get lost.” The bike shop sells several detailed trail maps, but Wilhelmi says the free one put out by CDOT, which the shop also has available, is just about the best around. “It shows all of the bike paths around the state,” she says. “Like, you can go from here to Cherry Creek Reservoir, and that’s 26 miles round-trip, or you can make it longer if you bike around the reservoir. That’s a nice ride.” She also recommends taking the Cherry Creek bike path to Confluence Park, or heading farther north to Clear Creek and taking on the more challenging Lookout Mountain ride. “That’s kind of a test of fortitude,” she says. “But that’s the ride to do.”
While you’re in the neighborhood: It’s Denver! Visit guide.denverpost.com or denver.org and go crazy.
