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Cabinet making: recessed wall cabinet build.

Frank The Plumber

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Feb 19, 2011
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Location
Chicago.
I am involved in a bathroom build out with a couple of nice ladies who want to get maximum value out of their bath remodel.
The original bath layout had a 6 foot x 4 foot poor quality whirlpool unit in it. This unit crowded the space, was an eyesore and it was never used, they really rarely are. We opted for a much smaller Kohler 8 jet whirlpool unit in the 5 foot x 3 foot size. This size unit is easily filled with your standard sized hot water heater and is a comfortable sized unit for all around bathing as well as having the jets in great places to soothe the old bones.
Our intention was to add a much needed and often missing towel toiletries sundries closet within the space we had scavenged from the old whirlpool beast.
We carefully balanced a space that consisted of 16" wide x 36 deep x 8 foot tall behind the tub space, not truly enough for a standard walk in closet, and by the time you detailed the space it would shrink into an unusable odd spot.
The choice was made to make a closet that would be functional as far as ergonomics, finished trim eficientcy and the ability to add value as well as match a piece that had been previously sourced. A Birch sink base with a rose tint on birch wood finish they want to call sandlewood.

I'll take you through the making and fitment of this unit and share a few things. Keep in mind, this is budget build stuff, this is not Tage Frid. Yes you can do things different, yes more detailed, sure you could spend 600 hours building a cabinet. In the end it's still a box and not a lot more. This unit is built to leave a little meat on the bone and retail for a delivered price point of around $500. Keep in mind, there's $250 in wood, hardware and finish products. An artist is not going to get all excited about that. You can still apply a few principles, so let's get a move on, this thing needs to be done Mucho Pronto the space is already awaiting it. In our first photo I am slicing my panels into manageable parts. I don't have a 5 grand table saw, sure it would be nice but not in this life, so we cut our parts a bit over sized and make it so our small table saw can handle them without killing us, we cut the part to exact size easier this way for nice tight fitment.
BTW, you can just use the circular saw, put a stop edge on the sheet and place the blade on the travel line and go ahead, your fit may not be as great but still, better than a lot of cabinets out there.
Place a few 2x's on the floor and trim the product out.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Location
Chicago.

For my sides and interior I am using B to BB or BBB grade birch plywood sheet, this priced at $45 per sheet, I get one nice usable stainable side which I will use for my interior. Had I wanted to use my cabinet with the exterior exposed I would have had to invest a bit more and gotten a 2 finished sides sheet.
My cabinet is roughly 17 wide x 22 deep and 64 tall. At 16 wide interior it becomes very hard to reach into a space much further than 22.
My method of attachment is very basic. I am using a 11/4" long brad nail on an air nailer with a bead of tite bond #2 for measure.
Yes you can biscuit, yes you can use all sorts of fancy screws, you can notch it, absolutely. Or you can shoot it, they do that a lot, so shall I on this unit.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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One of the challenges on this unit is that it abutts the wall on one side, thus we are constructing the frame on a bias. We need every inch we can get, we stole a bit from our toilet space and a tad from our tub, we don't want to waste a bit.
The unit is all shot and glued together and on it's back.
The unit has taken about 45 minutes of time at this point. We are cutting and running our face frame boards through a thickness planer to get our frame ready.
I am using white birch board stock S2S, I cut and rip my boards 1/8" over sized, I then put my board stock through my planer on edge prior to thinning the faces, I run each side this way to finish away my saw marks and any blade scuffing, this saves on sanding time later, Once down to my desired finished width I will thickness plane to 3/4 thick.
Yes I shot these on too, again there are many methods. The frames are shot on and ready and we are at 1 hour 30 minutes. That's our factor.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Chicago.
Next up is the fitment of shelving and our door size decision. It's better to have 2 smaller doors than one large door, the look will be better and it will function nicer. We split the unit in 2 with a fixed mid frame structure and brought the face frame out to meet it. Next we are cutting some shelves from the birch ply stock. We will fit an end cap of solid stock on it and glue and pin this to the face end of our shelves.
As far as adjustability on our shelving, we are going very simple, a few solid stock boards and countersunk screw guides, we will screw them where we like them, if another wants a change they may unscrew them and make a fresh choice. In the end this looks no worse nor functions any worse than having a unit with 200 pre sunk pin holes in it. A nice even spacing is great for us.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Chicago.
I do have the luxury of a nice bench dog router table. I used a sheet of melamine for a long time but then came to feel that a nice table would be a sweet birthday gift to myself a few years back.
Here we are setting up the machine to cut styles and rails. We are going to use a nice flat clean baltic birch panel for this, it has a few extra layers of laminate over a conventional 1/4" panel a gives us a nicer richer density to an otherwise simple panel.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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One of the things that you learn after a short while is that making templates is really a worth while investment of a few moments of your time. You could have a cutter that you have not used in 5 years, how the hell do I set this up you may wonder. Well the best way to keep from going looney baloony is to use the tool and get used to it on your initial project. After you have it all set up make a set up template for the next time you might want to apply it, label the template per the cutter, application and technique. Next time you wish to use it you simply dial it in per the previous use template and bingo all sweet. Some of the cutter heads will have a bit of math required to fit panels in them. Make yourself a small math scheme and it's application on the side of the template as well. These things are like gold when you are on a tight schedule.
I fit this part into a 3 hour window between jobs. I have to go and run a bunch of service calls. We will continue on the construction of the doors next.
 
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dlenkewich

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Saskatoon, Sk, Canada
Looks great, Frank.

The way you were talking about this being a nothing-fancy budget build, I didn't expect to see this much detail. Keep up the good work.
 

mixxmstrmike

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Apr 15, 2010
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Location
San Jose, CA
Great work and build. You're a great example of "it's not about the tools, but the person using them!"

Would love to see the installed product, if possible.

-Mike
 

rieferman

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May 18, 2009
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Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
Don't feel too bad for him, the tools I saw in his shop are just fine.. I think I spied a walker turner drill press, a 14" ridgid band saw, a table saw, a delta jointer.. I think many would be very happy with such a setup

:thumbup:
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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That drill press is a Pre war Delta Milwaukee,it served my neighbor Harvey for all of his life til his passing at the age of 93, one of my prized possessions.

my sewer rod is making a proud appearance too.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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I'll post some pics of it. I love the design, durability and toughness of these old machines. These things were made right at the height of perfection in design for them, most made later started to cheapen the concept.
I have some very cool attachments for the old gal too.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Time for door construction.
In the above photo we have a rail for the door. I have left this rail 33" long despite needing a 32" rail. I leave all final trim down until all machining is done on all parts. Once this rail and it's sister rail are machined, I cut them stacked together to have exactly identical parts. I trim after machining because many times you will have a bit of end blowout at the tail of the machining pass, this way you just trim away the tear out.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Set up for a stile, to get a stile you first do a pass on it as if it were a rail, this gives you the pocket for the panel to fit into. You then set the machine up with the stile cutter as shown. See how nice and fast I can get my template to give me my heights and away she goes.

You notice that I have a rather nice dedicated unit here. Don't let that scare you away from doing anything. Prior to this I did many of the same things on a flat chunk of melamine in my saw table. The only advantage I gain from this setup is speed, not process. I could still do every task on a flat saw top, it just took a bit longer to lock in my anti kick backs which are essential and set up my fence. Many of the things that took time were the safety procedures, so by having this unit I get to be safer in less time. In order to do any type of router operation with larger diameter cutter heads it is critical that you use a variable speed adjustable speed router. The larger the diameter the faster the spin at the cutter head. Spin it fast enough and she will throw a carbide bit at you. So spin these heads only as fast as the manufacturer says to.

I use absolutely no second rate cutter heads or bits. I prefer high quality cutter heads of a German Italian Swiss Israel or Hi tech tooling capability nations. No cheap stuff here.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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When machining the stiles, the method I prefer to avoid tear out and kickback is to cut a square push block out of scrap of the same thickness as the stile. In this case I can use a spare piece of 3/4 ply scrap as my door will be 3/4 thick. I pass the part and the push block through the cutter and press the part against the blade using a push paddle.

A trick I like to use to remove some process of thought from the machining task is to pre stage all of the parts you are working.
Make a stack of parts situated as they will be fed into the machine. In this way you simply work through this stack all in the same way. This cuts thought and lets you focus on the task of safely feeding these parts into the blades. No fumbling around while you have a dangerous tool running, just simple focused process.

I always use push sticks push paddles and anti kick backs. I feel that they help me to keep all of my digits. Even just having a kick or a jump absorbed by the block stick or paddle keeps the shock off of your hands.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Once we have our stiles and rails cut we want to prefit our machined parts to check them for square. Fit them together and use a trued square to check your work. Check all 4 sides.
Check your exterior dimension as well.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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We now take our Baltic Birch ply panels and exactly cut them square.
Our dimension for the plywood panels should be roughly 1/32 to 1/16 less than our measurement across the end to end spline of our stile. We also apply this to our rail dimension.

On a part that is machined from true wood board stock it becomes more critical as to your dimensions left for wood expansion. If you cut the part too exact and leave no expansion wood the material may expand enough to break the joints. In many cases a cork or a jute will be placed in the pocket to absorb the expansion yet keep the panel firm.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Once we have our parts machined and all ready it is time to assemble and pre fit the entire unit. Check all measurements again.

We now sand any and all areas that will not be able to be sanded upon assembly. The inner edges of the rail pockets, the end cuts of the stiles, give them a nice scuff to remove any fuzzing or debris and a light sanding.

We then glue up our assembly. We only apply glue to the rail and stile joints at their intersection, we do not glue the panel into the assembly, it is allowed to free float and move within the solid wood components as they expand and contract.

We are using tite bond #2, a good strong glue. Any glue must be wiped off of any surface you are hoping to stain. The glue blocks completely the ability of stains and sealers to penetrate the grain. This is especially critical on darker stain projects. You can stain this birch I am using with a walnut stain and get it to quite a beautiful coloration. It would be a shame to have spots that stood out due to poor glue up. Keep in mind, you can not clean up poor gluing by sanding it, the glue seals the grain deep into the fibers and the sand paper will not open them back up. So use care in glue up.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Shown is a panel that has been assembled, glued up, squared up, clamped down and cross squared.
Some would look at my assembly as short of about 9000 clamps. A lot of guys will get all excited and pull out every clamp they ever bought. They act like they need to subdue this panel as if it is a rabid ape.

The rails need to be firmly pressed and secured into the stiles and fair pressure applied, you don't want a lot of marking, and definately not to hear any crackling noises.

Across the door you want to attach the squaring member to assure that the two rails are not torqing or becoming untrue to each other. We want to place sacrificial wood into contact with the clamps so we do not get any marking, crushing our staining from them. Let this assembly sit over night for best results.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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We have some nice Blum 1/2" overlay hinges here. I like a high quality hinge, it gives the door it's feel. If you use a cheap hinge you get a cheap feel. These are about $7 a pair.

When you choose a hinge you have a factor called over lay. I should explain a bit here. Just enough so you get a basic idea of what this over lay could mean.
I have an opening in my box that is 15".
If I use a 1/2" overlay hinge I need to make a door panel 16".
If I use a 3/4" overlay hinge I need to make a door panel 16 1/2"
The overlay is the amount that the panel over laps the door opening on each edge of the door and frame assembly.
 
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Frank The Plumber

Frank The Plumber

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Sorry about the picture on this one, she just didn't want to flip for me in I Photo, any way, here you get a look at the shelves with the solid wood strips applied. They are set into the cabinet unit and cleared.

The frames are still unfinished and unsanded, they are getting a treatment of stain to match the other unit.

As you can see you get some nice color from the birch plywood.
 
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