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What does it take to run a successful restaurant in New York City? The answer may just involve zebra wallpaper.

In 2010, the iconic Upper East Side eatery Gino of Capri, known simply as Gino’s, shut its doors, leaving generations of loyal guests reeling. In the wake of the restaurant’s closing, Manhattan restaurateur Charles Devigne decided to use the establishment’s world-famous, hand-crafted zebra wallpaper — featured in films like Woody Allen’s Mighty Aphrodite and Wes Anderson’s The Royal Tenenbaums — to bolster business at his struggling Midtown restaurant, Pescatore. (Pictured here is an umbrella that uses the iconic zebra pattern.)

The decision sparked outrage in NYC’s restaurant world — and in the documentary The Missing Ingredient, filmmaker Michael Sparaga captures it all. Sparaga describes the film as “a love letter to classic restaurants.”

But The Missing Ingredient is “about more than just two restaurants connected by wallpaper,” Sparaga says. “It attempts to answer the complex question, ‘What makes a restaurant an institution?’ by exploring how diners feel about their cherished restaurants, not only the food, but also their emotional attachments to the ambiance, owners, and décor.” Learn more, and see a clip of the film, here.

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