The younger sibling of Boulder’s iconic Walnut Café, the South Side Walnut anchors the Table Mesa strip mall with its consistently good breakfasts and lunches. The quirky interior is almost always crowded, and the friendly staff seem to thrive on the energy. Housed in a building that is part old-school diner, part Dwell magazine modern, the café’s enormous garage-style doors open to sidewalk tables in the summer and allow in ample light during the winter.
The menu would be traditional breakfast fare–eggs and sweet carb dishes like pancakes and waffles–were it not for the creative configurations of eggs, cheese, and vegetables. Plus, most breakfasts come with the choice of two sides, and a person can choose on a scale of very healthy (fruit) to not (fried potatoes). One friend orders only the Egg Marcos ($7.65), a calorie-rich decadent serving of scrambled eggs, cream cheese and bacon that culminates in a rich, savory treat. Unless you’ve just completed a durable workout, it would be wise to find someone to share this giant platter. There’s nothing subtle about this dish, and it’s a hearty solution to an empty stomach.
The enormous Belgian waffles (plain $5.25) come crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside. The menu offers a range of toppings, but I prefer the simplicity of plain ones. Add butter and syrup, and life is good.
Nearly every breakfast is an indulgence, though some of the vegetarian dishes fall on the lighter side. Take the Boulder Scramble ($7.35), a stir-fried concoction of tofu, spinach, and more. Rich flavors and a hearty serving leave a diner feeling fueled, not stuffed.
Lunch options include soups, salads, and sandwiches, my favorite of which is the Santa Fe Chicken Salad ($7.75). An ample bed of green lettuce provides a foundation for black beans, grilled chicken, cheese, guacamole, and a tangy chipotle pepper dressing.
Finally, there are the pies ($3.25 a slice; $2.50 on Tuesdays). Made with a flaky, butter crust surrounding a variety of seasonal fruit fillings–cherry, apple. Strawberry rhubarb, blueberry–these house-made desserts are reason enough to visit the South Side Walnut Café.
If there is a flaw with the food at the South Side Walnut Café, it is that it comes in portions that could easily feed two with a normal appetite. And with the fresh ingredients and tempting flavors (and little discipline), one person easily puts away an entire plate. Of course, management can’t be held responsible for a diners’ overeating, but it could lessen the temptation by slightly shrinking servings.
Otherwise, the food is good, reliable, and consistent, and served by casual and friendly waiters. The coffee bar’s got the full gamut of special drinks, and sometimes they’re unbeatable. Other times, they’re bitter or lacking strength.
Put simply, the South Side Walnut Café is a morning and noon restaurant that delivers abundant plates of food at reasonable prices to a loyal crowd. There’s nothing fancy about it. Many of the offerings fall into “comfort food” category, which, when you’re talking about a neighborhood favorite makes perfect sense.
Contact dining critic Rachel Odell Walker at boulderdining@gmail.com
