Review: Suh Noi — Little Thaiger in Scottsdale roars with tasty food
First, there was the Wild Thaiger on Thomas Road and Central Avenue in Phoenix. Open about a decade now, it’s a Thai restaurant racy enough that it attracted a visit from Guy Fieri in late 2014, to film an episode of his Food Network show "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives."
Then, in April 2015, the restaurant's chef and owner, Olashawn Hasadinratana-Weaver, opened Suh Noi — The Little Thaiger, set in a little shop (the former Tacos Jalisco) with a drive-through on Thomas Road near Scottsdale Road in Scottsdale. As the cute little sister, it’s downright adorable — from the cherry blossom-pink patio umbrellas strung with twinkle lights to contemporary white Formica chairs and sleek white tables inside, color pops from vases of cherry blossoms, and an order counter painted with a cartoon mural of animal superheroes.
Yet much of the food still has teeth, featuring many of the dishes that Fieri called “off the hook” at the more upscale Wild Thaiger.
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What's the scene like?
Drive-through or not, this isn’t fast food. Order by phone or online for pickup, and even prior to dining in if you’re in any kind of rush, to save time twiddling your chopsticks as dishes are cooked to order and often served quite slowly. Food arrives artfully arranged on real ceramic plates; water is served in real glasses; and an array of hot sauces are served in glass jars instead of squeeze bottles.
You’ll pay real restaurant prices, too, like $17.95 for a more spicy than flavorful tumble of clear noodles, garlic-chili shrimp, scallops, egg and vegetables.
Food
Dragon Eggz are Fieri’s favorite, in case you were wondering. And why not? They're six dumplings stuffed with juicy pork, shrimp and crab ($9.95) that you can get steamed or crispy fried. I liked a half-and-half order, alternating chewy soft steamed against a bit burned but still good crunchy fried, all topped in sliced jalapeños and set in a pond of medium spicy chile sauce.
Fieri also likes the moo yang, for good reason. Simple but satisfying, skewers of marinated barbecue pork rest over sticky rice with a side of cool, slivered papaya salad tossed in spicy tamarind-garlic-lemon dressing ($11.95). I haven’t ordered pad Thai anywhere in forever, on the other hand, since it’s usually so bland-sweet. But here, it’s nicely spicy and kissed with a vinegar edge, the thin rice noodles tossed with three firm shrimp, carrot curls, cabbage, bean sprouts, scallion and crushed peanuts ($11.95).
The gravy-thick peanut sauce for the “passion” chicken isn’t too sweet, either ($9.95), though candy shrimp delivers on its promise, with a welcome bit of sour to balance flavors atop baby greens ($15.95). I like it with sips of iced, creamy boba tea ($3.25), served in a tall parfait glass with a smattering of chewy tapioca balls.
Still, the best is the wild boar gra pao ($9.95), ground meat in a savory stew with Thai basil, Thai chiles, garlic, soft onion slabs and sweet red bell pepper, with a fried egg plopped on top of the rice. The flavors are big, bold, and, dare I say it, “off the hook.”
Drinks
Sip hot teas in exotic names like Green Passion, Dragon Well Green and Gunpowder Temple of Heaven; or go boozy with California wines, Thai beers and sake bombers.
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Desserts
Just see if you can pass up the shiny cooler case stocked with frequently changing homemade treats like lemon hibiscus cheesecake ($6.95), baked with a pillowy crust and topped in hibiscus blossoms; or Thai coffee cheesecake drizzled in Kahlua chocolate sauce ($6.95). I lucked out with a spring-seasonal treat of sweet mango and warm sticky rice ($6.95).
The lowdown
This tiny Little Thaiger roars.
Suh Noi — The Little Thaiger
Where: 7150 E. Thomas Road, Scottsdale.
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays.
Details: 480-941-7210, littlethaiger.com.
Cuisine: Thai.
Kid-friendly: Yes.
Price: Less than $40 for a three-course meal, excluding beverage, tax and tip.